Speaker swap for dummies

[AAHIHaveNoIdeaWhatImDoing]

Hi gang. Long time no post. Have been thinking about getting a WGS Vet 30 speaker for my DSL40c lately, am super apprehensive about actually changing the speaker myself.

I realize this cannot possibly be a complicated process, but I am not what you could call "electronics-savvy". Do you simply unscrew the speaker from the cab, take the two little wires off and then screw in the new speaker, attach the wires, and done? Is there soldering involved with this particular amp (I can't tell from looking through the back)? How do you know which wire (red/black) goes to which. . .uh.. .thingy?

Is there a "for dummies" style guide/video somewhere? Or can someone talk (type?) me through it?

Thanks.

-Electronically Inexperienced in Houston

 

[tubes]

...unscrew the speaker from the cab, take the two little wires off and then screw in the new speaker, attach the wires, and done?...

I don't have that amp, but that's what I would expect.

I don't know whether you would have to solder. I would expect to. But you might be lucky and find some kind of push-on spade terminals.

Most speakers have a marking on or near their terminals so you can see which is positive and negative.
Sometimes it could just be a red dot to indicate the positive terminal.

Polarity is more of an issue if you have multiple speakers - because you don't want speakers to be out-of-phase with each other. Or you might need to get a combination of parallel and series just right. Not an issue with just one speaker.

I don't like to tell other people what to do but... if you like amps and guitars and other sound-related gear it's very worthwhile having soldering gear on hand.

It's not difficult and you can save money: make cables, take care of simple repairs yourself.

 

[chiliphil1]

I swapped 2 speakers in my 4x12 today. It was literally plug and play. Remove wires, remove 4 screws, swap speaker, install 4 screws, plug wires in to new speakers, that's it.

Just put the red and black back where they were. On mine, v30's and t75's both had a + sign which indicated where the red wire went. Took less than 5 minutes.

 

[AAHIHaveNoIdeaWhatImDoing]

Thanks guys. I've THOUGHT about learning to solder for a long time, still haven't. Would prefer first time out not be on something expensive(ish) that I care about.

That's great that the 4x12 cab was that easy. . .do you know if it's the same with the DSL40c? I guess I will give Marshall a holla.

 

[EndGame00]

Red wire connects to the positive (+) connection... At least the DSL40 is single speaker so it shouldn't be hard to figure out which wire connects to which speaker terminal...

 

[Murray]

Already well covered. DSL40-c should have spade lugs on the speaker terminals. 4 screws on the speaker basket. Note orientation of wires (red+, black-), ease them off the terminals. Unscrew the 4 screws & remove speaker.

New speaker should align with old holes. If not, you get to make some new holes. Align speaker to holes & set all 4 screws in finger tight. Then you want to snug them down to just snug & then perhaps a tweak more. If you try to tighten these down too tight you'll warp the basket & the coil will drag & all sorts of ugly. Just snug+ works.

Stick spade lugs on new speaker terminals. They should be a tight fit, so like you had to wiggle them off, wiggle them on. They don't have to be soldered but you don't want them falling off either. Should be a tight mechanical connection.

Should be easy. No worries.

 

[ampmadscientist]

Hi gang. Long time no post. Have been thinking about getting a WGS Vet 30 speaker for my DSL40c lately, am super apprehensive about actually changing the speaker myself.

I realize this cannot possibly be a complicated process, but I am not what you could call "electronics-savvy". Do you simply unscrew the speaker from the cab, take the two little wires off and then screw in the new speaker, attach the wires, and done? Is there soldering involved with this particular amp (I can't tell from looking through the back)? How do you know which wire (red/black) goes to which. . .uh.. .thingy?

Is there a "for dummies" style guide/video somewhere? Or can someone talk (type?) me through it?

Thanks.

-Electronically Inexperienced in Houston

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4_nUtzCZyA

 

[AAHIHaveNoIdeaWhatImDoing]

Thanks folks. Murray's post did the trick, I think. Even I should be able to handle that.

 

[AAHIHaveNoIdeaWhatImDoing]

Well, it hath been ordered. Wish me luck.

 

[nikola]

Just be careful of the power valves as you pull out the original speaker.

Also certain screws may be hard to tighten after you've replaced it with your new speaker.

 

[AAHIHaveNoIdeaWhatImDoing]

Oh do the tubes (that's what I assume you mean by valves?) stick out in such a way that they'd get konked while pulling the old speaker out?

 

[Gene Ballzz]

When you take the rear cover off the amp, all shall be revealed. Not a bad idea to pull all the tubes during your speaker swap. Just lay them out in order so that they all end up back in the same sockets. I personally like to use a soft cotton cloth when handling tubes, to avoid getting sweat/oils on the tubes, which I've read can cause hot spots. On this point, most tell me that I'm in overkill mode!

Haver Fun & Enjoy Your new Speaker & New Skills,
Gene

 

[AAHIHaveNoIdeaWhatImDoing]

Thanks. I will take a look when the time comes. I have literally never touched a tube in my life (that I can recall), so even that makes me nervous. Unless it's simply screwing/unscrewing them from their mounts.

 

[Bigmuff]

The only other thing I can add is to make sure the impedance of the replacement speaker matches the original. It was probably 16 ohm.

For what it's worth, all 3 of my cabs just use the clip connectors, and I've never had a problem with them.

 

[Murray]

When you take the rear cover off the amp, all shall be revealed. Not a bad idea to pull all the tubes during your speaker swap. Just lay them out in order so that they all end up back in the same sockets. I personally like to use a soft cotton cloth when handling tubes, to avoid getting sweat/oils on the tubes, which I've read can cause hot spots. On this point, most tell me that I'm in overkill mode!

Haver Fun & Enjoy Your new Speaker & New Skills,
Gene

I don't think that's overkill at all, Gene. I don't think tubes like oils. Good shop practice. Can't hurt. Speaking of hurt, my wife got tired of me burning my fingers when changing out tubes that hadn't cooled, so she got me an 'Ove Glove'. Kevlar. Perfect for hot or cold tubes.

AAHIHaveNoIdeaWhatImDoing...the power tubes have a key at the base, so it pretty much tells you how it wants to sit in the socket. The pre amp tubes are 9 pin that have a gap between 9 & 1, corresponding to the socket. Only one way they can go in. Gently...ease them out in a gentle, almost circular motion (very small circle). Same putting back in. Look at the 12AX7 socket & align. Should not require much of a push to seat. Finesse.

Don't get out the worry beads on this. Once you try it you'll see how easy it really is.

 

[AAHIHaveNoIdeaWhatImDoing]

Thanks. I'll make a judgment call on messing with the tubes when the time comes. The "not touching with bare hands" thing sounds like how you handle bulbs/globes for video/movie lights (the industry I work in). . .you are absolutely 100% NOT supposed to touch the glass with your bare hands. They heat up to unbelievable (well not really) temperatures and will explode from the finger oils.

As for the ohms. . .yeah, the stock speaker is plugged into the 16 jack, so ordered the 16 ohm version of the vet 30.

 

[AAHIHaveNoIdeaWhatImDoing]

Well, speaker came a day earlier than expected, so I got bold and put it in (was gonna wait 'til after our Friday gig). It was indeed super simple.

Seems louder than the stock, and I hear the bolder lows/low mids/whatever you know what I mean, plus the reduced treble.

So, for those who have this combo (DSL40c/Vet30), what are your cock rock/hard (GnR rhythm, Cult, all the 80's "not quite metal but still heavy rock" stuff that we all know? I more or less have it set how I did before I changed speakers:

treb - 3,
mids - 7
bass 4
pres 3
res 1.5(ish)

tone shift always out/off. . .I'm not a fan of that flatter/scooped sound.

crunch setting on clean chan
clean gain 2.5ish

ultra gain 4
lead 2

Volumes wherever they fall for a gig. I am usually REALLY low compared to what you guys like (maybe a 2-3 on clean channel, 2 or less on ultra), even at gigs, especially at practice.

Also my apartment is all hard surfaces, even tile floor, so treble super painful here.

 

[Gene Ballzz]

AAHIHaveNoIdeaWhatImDoing,
After hearing what industry you work in, I was pretty sure it would end up being a no brainer for you! Glad it all worked out.

Gene

 

[EndGame00]

Ive seen a demo of a DSL40 with WGS British Lead (their take on Celestion Classic Lead 80) it actually sounds pretty good.. It kind of tame the high-end fizziness DSL's are notorious for.... You might wanna check that out as well.

 

[Murray]

Well, speaker came a day earlier than expected, so I got bold and put it in (was gonna wait 'til after our Friday gig). It was indeed super simple.

Congrats.