SV20H - Buyers remorse ? Cabinet size, Noobie in need of advice

[Sustainium]

The Freyette PS reampers are true analog reactive attenuation. it is a top quality unit that has minimal coloration and on-board controls to mitigate any that crops up under the highest levels of attenuation. The attenuation knob functions like an amp volume. You don’t click hash-marked settings (i.e. - 6dB, - 12dB, - 18dB) Thus you can dial to your sweet spot (- 9.6dB, -11dB, etc).

The TAE also provides reactive attenuation as it also has a power amp. reactive attenuators give a superior result and there are threads upon threads that deal with reactive vs resistive attenuators. The TAE, like the Freyettes have a similar smooth dial to find the sweet spot, as well as coloration control EQ to correct. the crucial difference in attenuation between these similarly-featured (re: attenuation) reactive attenuators is the TAE utilizes A/D/A processing wherein the “true analog signal” is converted to digital and then that is converted to analog. This too is a potential can of worms where some find it innocuous and others sacrilege. the comparisons I have read have shown preference for one, for the other and that the difference seemed negligible, but the trend seemed to be a preference for the Freyette.

The Captor X is the most basic of the bunch. It is resistive, not reactive having a resistor instead of an active power amp to engage with the speaker. Of equal importance it has no knob to set attenuation to a specific spot… it does not even have a dial with say, 5 or 6 positions to click through. It has a 3 way switch (OFF/MILD/MAX, essentially) without color control EQ. The attenuation is serviceable, if not decent, but once comparisons start with “quality dedicated units” (OX, Rivera, Tone King, etc.) the competition is preferred.

That said, the Captor X offers “essentially” everything the TAE does, at 1/2 the price (obviously not at the same quality though). It is a great overall unit and its attenuation served me well until I got the PS but it’s not going to be the best attenuator of the bunch. HOWEVER, if the majority of your playing is through the DAW (recording) or through headphones (silent via IRs) with occasional attenuation, this could be the most practical option, since it is as straightforward to use as the Freyettes and ties up the least money of the bunch for a ton of features.

I’m currently switching my PS-2A by unplugging from one amp and plugging into another sitting on top of it. How are you switching your PS100 between amps? I’m considering purchasing a second PS to avoid this manual connecting and just use my radial ABY box on pedal board like normal. I’m thinking there has to be a less expensive way to go about it.

 

[Hendrix_fan1990]

 

[nevermind]

@Hendrix_fan1990

I have this audio interface, I'll check and see if I can plug it into my PS1 "line out" and get headphones working later today...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QR6Z1JB/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A3QYKZ7LXW9O3&th=1

 

[Hendrix_fan1990]

Anybody here know if the Friedman's sound like Marshalls? Or if they sound good at bedroom levels?

Sound pretty good on Youtube.

Of course just curious

 

[nevermind]

@Hendrix_fan1990

I have this audio interface, I'll check and see if I can plug it into my PS1 "line out" and get headphones working later today...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QR6Z1JB/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A3QYKZ7LXW9O3&th=1

If I read my google search answers correctly, the unit above is a no go. You need an IR - cab simulator in the path to get correct sound to headphones

 

[Abrasive1]

I have a Runt 20 modified with a fat and sat switch for the PT gain channel. It's awesome and can hit pretty much any tone you could want. I have had it since October and have yet to run a pedal through it. Clean is fantastic and gain channel is even better. It also has an xlr out and built in dummy load. This is where you get great sound at as low volume as you need. Mine is modified and green tolex but you can get them relatively cheap used. I have run it through my Focusrite and played with just headphones. Might even get someone to trade for your sv20h. Little sister might get you closer to hendrix but 1 channel. Not that you need to spend even more money.

 

[Abrasive1]

 

[marshallmellowed]

How would you say the TAE, Fryette, & Captor X compare in terms of affecting tone when attenuating?

The Fryette, using a tube power amp would have the most affect on the tone and feel, as you're basically playing a tube amp through a tube amp. Whether that effect is something that would matter to the user, or that they would like, is up to the user. Designs using SS power amps, like the TAE, would have the least affect. You'll read comments to the contrary by some PS owners, but I've tried both units, and preferred the TAE for it's transparency and features. The added features of the TAE made it a better value for my needs. I'd suggest trying both units before buying, don't buy based on an opinion.

 

[marshallmellowed]

Again, opinions will vary. This guy, who is a well known amp tech, prefers the Suhr, with TAE as a close 2nd (read his comments). You really need to try the units yourself...

 

[V-man]

I’m currently switching my PS-2A by unplugging from one amp and plugging into another sitting on top of it. How are you switching your PS100 between amps? I’m considering purchasing a second PS to avoid this manual connecting and just use my radial ABY box on pedal board like normal. I’m thinking there has to be a less expensive way to go about it.

Why not, if the purchase is not too extravagant? My 2 uses for the PS are to attenuate the 1959 (85% of the time) and add an FX loop to the 2203 (15%). I can always put the captor behind the 1959 when switching or just switch off (unplug protocol).

Perfect review for the discussion highlighting why the TAE is The WORST of the bunch and what you have is best, even better than the Tone King.

TAE‘s inadequacy

- On-the-fly controls make no sig dif. You must enter a program and hand-tailor the EQ to that exact room/rig and go through same PITA changing rooms/rigs.

- Without going through hassle of EQ program, the sound is like the “blanket over the speakers” issue.

- Even with a good ear EQ matching the “sound,” you have the same “feel“ as plugging into a Modeler regardless, making the whole rig stupid and pointless (as a dedicated attenuator). Why spend $$$ on a tube amp and $$$ on a TAE to go through the same learning curve and hassle just to get the experience of playing through a $$ modeler? Might as well go that route entirely making the TAE pointless in this scenario.

BONUS: being 5 years old now, it is reasonable to project that it is at best 25%, at worst 50% (possibly 1/3 even compromise) through its service life, meaning Boss will release a “V2”/new mousetrap down the road that makes this yesterday’s news. A bit of a downer for an analog flanger you bought just last year, much more significant for a full digital amp.

Anybody here know if the Friedman's sound like Marshalls? Or if they sound good at bedroom levels?

Sound pretty good on Youtube.

Of course just curious

Yet another can of worms. Jimi did not play Friedmans. Friedmans can sound like Marshalls, being based on their circuits, PRS can sound like Marshalls (please don’t ask about those next) and other Marshalls can be dialed to sound like other Marshalls… Hell, modelers can sound like Marshalls. If you have decent chops on stage in a mix (likely recorded in a mix too) it will not be very perceptible. But to the nth degree of getting it exact Friedmans/PRS/Line 6/DSLs are not plexis. You simply have a choice, which brings us to this…

I am not understanding why you are so persistent on seeking a new problem to your solution every other day. At this point right now, it should be abundantly clear that short of a 100w Superlead/full size JTM, your amp and PS-2 are literally the best you can get emulating that tone and feel in your environment. If any of the inconveniences or costs are bothering you at a significant level, you have a number of COMPROMISES to choose from.

You already went down the SC route and balked and are now looking at Friedman. As far as I can see it, you don’t get some escape hatch that panders to your every whim on this. You can deal with the SV and PS (and just build a damned shelf to rest on top of the amp for the PS to perch atop, and grab a load box for phones) dealing with the large overall expense for the rig. You can also get a relatively inexpensive Captor X that gives you a plug n play headphones experience at a reasonable price with a small footprint at the cost of better attenuation when you want to take the phones off. You can sell your amp and just get a Modeler and your whole rig would cost you +/- what the Captor X alone would at the cost of losing the natural amp feel and having to study up on manuals and tutorials, figuring out how to making all that shit run for your needs.

My parting suggestion: Shyte or get off the pot. Do/add the 1-2 things you need to perfect what you have right now for your environment, or just get a Captor X.

 

[JohnH]

TBH, 16 pages in, my solution to the original problem would be as suggested in post#2. (just sayin' ...not really suggestin'...)

 

[V-man]

TBH, 16 pages in, my solution to the original problem would be as suggested in post#2. (just sayin' ...not really suggestin'...)

A very viable alternative as well, only (my perception suggests) he wants plug and play headphone use (loadbox/IR) also. So, like the PS, more tweaks/adds to finish it off.

 

[Hendrix_fan1990]

Why not, if the purchase is not too extravagant? My 2 uses for the PS are to attenuate the 1959 (85% of the time) and add an FX loop to the 2203 (15%). I can always put the captor behind the 1959 when switching or just switch off (unplug protocol).



Perfect review for the discussion highlighting why the TAE is The WORST of the bunch and what you have is best, even better than the Tone King.

TAE‘s inadequacy

- On-the-fly controls make no sig dif. You must enter a program and hand-tailor the EQ to that exact room/rig and go through same PITA changing rooms/rigs.

- Without going through hassle of EQ program, the sound is like the “blanket over the speakers” issue.

- Even with a good ear EQ matching the “sound,” you have the same “feel“ as plugging into a Modeler regardless, making the whole rig stupid and pointless (as a dedicated attenuator). Why spend $$$ on a tube amp and $$$ on a TAE to go through the same learning curve and hassle just to get the experience of playing through a $$ modeler? Might as well go that route entirely making the TAE pointless in this scenario.

BONUS: being 5 years old now, it is reasonable to project that it is at best 25%, at worst 50% (possibly 1/3 even compromise) through its service life, meaning Boss will release a “V2”/new mousetrap down the road that makes this yesterday’s news. A bit of a downer for an analog flanger you bought just last year, much more significant for a full digital amp.




Yet another can of worms. Jimi did not play Friedmans. Friedmans can sound like Marshalls, being based on their circuits, PRS can sound like Marshalls (please don’t ask about those next) and other Marshalls can be dialed to sound like other Marshalls… Hell, modelers can sound like Marshalls. If you have decent chops on stage in a mix (likely recorded in a mix too) it will not be very perceptible. But to the nth degree of getting it exact Friedmans/PRS/Line 6/DSLs are not plexis. You simply have a choice, which brings us to this…

I am not understanding why you are so persistent on seeking a new problem to your solution every other day. At this point right now, it should be abundantly clear that short of a 100w Superlead/full size JTM, your amp and PS-2 are literally the best you can get emulating that tone and feel in your environment. If any of the inconveniences or costs are bothering you at a significant level, you have a number of COMPROMISES to choose from.

You already went down the SC route and balked and are now looking at Friedman. As far as I can see it, you don’t get some escape hatch that panders to your every whim on this. You can deal with the SV and PS (and just build a damned shelf to rest on top of the amp for the PS to perch atop, and grab a load box for phones) dealing with the large overall expense for the rig. You can also get a relatively inexpensive Captor X that gives you a plug n play headphones experience at a reasonable price with a small footprint at the cost of better attenuation when you want to take the phones off. You can sell your amp and just get a Modeler and your whole rig would cost you +/- what the Captor X alone would at the cost of losing the natural amp feel and having to study up on manuals and tutorials, figuring out how to making all that shit run for your needs.

My parting suggestion: Shyte or get off the pot. Do/add the 1-2 things you need to perfect what you have right now for your environment, or just get a Captor X.

Yup, 100% I agree. I was only curious about Friedman's. Im familiar with PRS - I know its a dead end (They also need attenuation)

I do accept what I have is probably the best I'm going to get. The Fryette sounded pretty dammed good today. I played some Jimi chops on my Ditto loop pedal. Closed my box room door and just heard the tones
from out side the room, the amp sounded pretty good.

Im also hearing that low gain Hendrixy tone. it is indeed a good amp. I just need to spend more time understanding my Marshal / Fryette - I suppose.

I greatly appreciate you're help !

 

[JohnH]

The addition of headphone output to the wish list is an extra, but its a fair idea. I personally don't like headphones, but it could be an option for when zero noise is needed. Needs decent phones, fed via an IR or cab-sim box, maybe with a small mixer to drive the phones, which can also do USB interface for pc playback, multitracking etc. Another few hundred $ at stake unless it's already provided by other items.....

 

[Mark Collier]

Why not, if the purchase is not too extravagant? My 2 uses for the PS are to attenuate the 1959 (85% of the time) and add an FX loop to the 2203 (15%). I can always put the captor behind the 1959 when switching or just switch off (unplug protocol).



Perfect review for the discussion highlighting why the TAE is The WORST of the bunch and what you have is best, even better than the Tone King.

TAE‘s inadequacy

- On-the-fly controls make no sig dif. You must enter a program and hand-tailor the EQ to that exact room/rig and go through same PITA changing rooms/rigs.

- Without going through hassle of EQ program, the sound is like the “blanket over the speakers” issue.

- Even with a good ear EQ matching the “sound,” you have the same “feel“ as plugging into a Modeler regardless, making the whole rig stupid and pointless (as a dedicated attenuator). Why spend $$$ on a tube amp and $$$ on a TAE to go through the same learning curve and hassle just to get the experience of playing through a $$ modeler? Might as well go that route entirely making the TAE pointless in this scenario.

BONUS: being 5 years old now, it is reasonable to project that it is at best 25%, at worst 50% (possibly 1/3 even compromise) through its service life, meaning Boss will release a “V2”/new mousetrap down the road that makes this yesterday’s news. A bit of a downer for an analog flanger you bought just last year, much more significant for a full digital amp.




Yet another can of worms. Jimi did not play Friedmans. Friedmans can sound like Marshalls, being based on their circuits, PRS can sound like Marshalls (please don’t ask about those next) and other Marshalls can be dialed to sound like other Marshalls… Hell, modelers can sound like Marshalls. If you have decent chops on stage in a mix (likely recorded in a mix too) it will not be very perceptible. But to the nth degree of getting it exact Friedmans/PRS/Line 6/DSLs are not plexis. You simply have a choice, which brings us to this…

I am not understanding why you are so persistent on seeking a new problem to your solution every other day. At this point right now, it should be abundantly clear that short of a 100w Superlead/full size JTM, your amp and PS-2 are literally the best you can get emulating that tone and feel in your environment. If any of the inconveniences or costs are bothering you at a significant level, you have a number of COMPROMISES to choose from.

You already went down the SC route and balked and are now looking at Friedman. As far as I can see it, you don’t get some escape hatch that panders to your every whim on this. You can deal with the SV and PS (and just build a damned shelf to rest on top of the amp for the PS to perch atop, and grab a load box for phones) dealing with the large overall expense for the rig. You can also get a relatively inexpensive Captor X that gives you a plug n play headphones experience at a reasonable price with a small footprint at the cost of better attenuation when you want to take the phones off. You can sell your amp and just get a Modeler and your whole rig would cost you +/- what the Captor X alone would at the cost of losing the natural amp feel and having to study up on manuals and tutorials, figuring out how to making all that shit run for your needs.

My parting suggestion: Shyte or get off the pot. Do/add the 1-2 things you need to perfect what you have right now for your environment, or just get a Captor X.

Perfectly said.

 

[Karl Brake]

Any

Hey Guys,

I've recently Purchased the SV20H with a 2x12 cabinet. I also use a Harley Benton pa-100 Attenuator. I'm completely new to Marshal amps and I'm a MASSIVE Hendrix fan. I'm not well versed in gear and amplifiers so please forgive my lack of understanding of things. My goal was to get a great Hendrix tone, at bedroom levels.....with an attenuator (yea I know, not easy Jimi played loud, SV20H is LOUD etc...)

Got a little bit of a dilemma. I'm beginning to have buyers remorse and think I made a mistake buying this amp.

A few issues I have:

* The physical Cabinet size ( fitted with 2 x Bass cone 55Hz Heritage Greenbacks ) :
1). The SV20H with the cab (upright cabinet) is a little big for my box room. Sure I measured up and it sits in the corner of my box room ok. But its VERY chunky (or as I like to call it "Chonky"). It looked "thinner" in the YouTube videos I've seen, I think the upright 2x12 was a mistake. A smaller cab would suit my room a lot better. The look of the amp isn't bad, it just seems to be "extra", its almost as if it has this over whelming presence.

Is there a smaller cab size (doesn't have to be marshal ) that anyone here can recommend? Preferably fitted with the same greenbacks ? Or even a smaller empty cab that I can fit a green back into?

* The tone of the amp
2). Am I missing something? I'm playing it with the Harley Benton Attenuator on and it sounds.....ok. I was expecting a little more from it. I was expecting something a little more distinct, like I heard in the YouTube videos (even with attenuation) sound so much better. What am I doing wrong ? Is the attenuator killing the tone? (I did wire it up wrong at the start - seems better now, but still left wondering)
There's an awful lot I don't understand about the SV20H (a lot of settings and ports going on with the back of the amp: FX LOOP? 19 OHMS, LOUD AMPS?). I think I need to spend more time with it.

Are there any tutorials on this website to teach me about the SV20H settings (preferably to achieve the Hendrix tone I CRAVE)?
Any other workarounds to play at bedroom levels ?
Are there any amp settings you would recommend for a better (Hendrix) tone?

N.B. Any suggestions for Bedroom Marshall amp to pull off of those Hendrix tones? I understand the SV20H is a LOUD amp. Everyone I spoke to suggested it with an attenuator.

3). Have any of you purchased something you regretted only to find that you just needed to spend more time with it ? Is this normal ?

I could just be panicking a little as I've spent a little over a £1000

and again, thanks for the help and suggestions !

Any tube amp without a master volume will need to be dimed to get fat clean or crunch tone. Hendrix did a lot of different tones, but even the clean stuff was a cranked Marshall, and he pushed the front end with a wah, a Univibe, and a fuzz face, along with all sorts of stuff. Get yourself an overdrive, pronto!!! Or you'll be forever frustrated.

 

[fuchs]

I have a SV20H, attenuated with a THD Hotplate. You need to take time to dial it in, it is not “plug and play”. Jump the channels and try. Try all four inputs, turn the knobs. A 2mm turn on a knob can make a huge difference. Find a great base tone and put a fuzzface, wah, univibe and a decent overdrive before the amp and there you go. Keep your money in your pocket.

 

[svinyard]

I have a SV20H, attenuated with a THD Hotplate. You need to take time to dial it in, it is not “plug and play”. Jump the channels and try. Try all four inputs, turn the knobs. A 2mm turn on a knob can make a huge difference. Find a great base tone and put a fuzzface, wah, univibe and a decent overdrive before the amp and there you go. Keep your money in your pocket.

It’s this simple. Can’t believe this thread is 16 pages lol.

And if this doesn’t work, go get a nice modeler.

 

[SlyStrat]

 

[svinyard]

Sheesh dude. Glutton!

You need a nice little 1965 cab asap for those boys tho!