The dsl joey mod thread

[Landshark]

Actually Ricky, what you said in reference to the overdrive pcb makes perfect sense. The tone shift being involved in some of those components I changed and or removed would explain the loss of mids. It's like the tone shift is engaged constantly, which it a terrible sound for this amp. Then I've also been having issues with the reverb not working coreectly, which could be a result of R20 being changed. Looks like I could solve some issues by taking the overdrive pcb in my TSL back to stock form.

 

[RickyLee]

Actually Ricky, what you said in reference to the overdrive pcb makes perfect sense. The tone shift being involved in some of those components I changed and or removed would explain the loss of mids. It's like the tone shift is engaged constantly, which it a terrible sound for this amp. Then I've also been having issues with the reverb not working coreectly, which could be a result of R20 being changed. Looks like I could solve some issues by taking the overdrive pcb in my TSL back to stock form.

Yeah, I was hoping you would look into my post on those component differences, and see if that had something to do with your issues.

 

[Landshark]

I have to order the part for C12 cause I broke the leg off when I removed it. After it arives I'll let you know if everything is restored.

 

[Doug_MN]

New DSL 50 owner here. So, I've read all 27 pages twice and I have a few questions regarding the "Joey_Voltage" mods.

1) Are there any audio clips of this mod? Any A/B comparisons?

2) Please explain what "darkens" means with respect to the tone?

3) Does the "JoeyV" mods sound anything like the "JCM2000 FJA mods" on YouTube?

4) After posting the original "Joey_Voltage" mods on page 1, many users discussed further changes to address specific tones or noise problems. Are the page 1 original mods still valid?

5) Most of my amp's usage is basement level playing. Will an OT and choke upgrade be noticeable?

6) Does the "JoeyV" mods turn the DSL into more of a metal oriented amp? If most of my sounds I wish to recreate are classic rock (AC/DC, Zep, Rush, ZZ Top...) will these mods deliver?

Any advice is most appreciated!

Doug

 

[Jason77]

Doug,

I hear ya... after 27 pages, your head starts to spin and it can get a bit confusing. I read this tread over and over before i modded my dsl 50. I can't answer all your questions but I'll try to clear some of it up as best I can...

The mods on page one are the crux of the mods. In the pages beyond that, many people used that as a starting point, then started tweaking to taste to better suit their needs. I got overwhelmed by that and tried many of the other mods listed in the thread but found that it was more than what I was looking for because I was combining mods that didn't need to go together, if that makes sense.

What the joey mods (as listed on page 1) do, is remove muddiness from the low end so its a little more tighter and defined (as opposed to boomy), and add a little more clarity and emphasis to the mids, upper mids. It doesn't turn it into a high gain monster. If anything, it gives it more of an metal panel/800ish feel, perfect for classic rock though it can still get into higher gain territory if you wish.

I recently got a DSL 100 and held back on the amount of mods I did. I didn't change the value of R30 as I didn't feel the amp was very dark. I didn't add the 1M resistor on vr3 and used a value of .0022uf on c8.

I think if you start off with what's listed in the first post, you'll be fine. I'd do R30 and 1M on vr3 later, if you feel you need it. If at that point, you feel its close but not quite there, I'd post a specific question about what you're trying to get out of it.

Hope that helps.

 

[Landshark]

I'm back to normal Ricky! Thanks for the insight man!

 

[RickyLee]

I'm back to normal Ricky! Thanks for the insight man!

Good to hear.

I was able to get quite a few components swapped in my TSL100 earlier today. This injury I have had since the middle of last December has been kicking my ass LOL. It was good to be able to actually sit up at a table and do something for a change.

Something that has always baffled me on this amp as well as my DSL100, is the B+ power supply rail. Namely that 1K R62. What is the purpose of that small value? Much less, why even have a low value dropping resistor like that? What am I missing here?



I increased that one on my DSL100 so I could have much lower tolerable voltages at V3 cathode follower. I had about 450V running on pin1 of V3 in my DSL100. So I lowered those voltages last year and got them down closer to 330V and also got the voltages at the cathode much lower. That was a hard slot on valves in that amp. New production valves have a tough time with those high voltages.

So I changed that resistor 1K R62 to 10K 2W as well as the 4.7K R63 to 10K 2W in my TSL100. Did some other component swapping that I will fill you in on later when the amp is completed - and of course, have to see how it sounds.

 

[guitargoalie]

I have a question for the mods on the first page. I'm really liking my dsl crunch green, but its a bit loose and low gain. I have a model on my pod floorboard based on the chandler tube driver, when i kick it in with the gain around half and level at full, it just barely tightens it up and adds a small amount of dirt, will the joey mods tighten up the green and add a touch of gain? I'd rather get all my tone from the amp lol

 

[jensbrix]

Changing to the 1uf cathode on first gain stage will help tighten it alot, its a must to do it in my oppinion. More gain can be done in several ways, depending on what you want

 

[shane159]

I have read that you lose a little gain on the lead 1 of the DSL when you remove the C12 cap. Does the lead 2 still work and if so how is lead 2 affected?

 

[TheLoudness!!]

Can anyone tell me about the Fortin mods?

I am looking for an insane modern metal tone with tight low end and awesome punch.

 

[TheLoudness!!]

nobody?

 

[RickyLee]

Can anyone tell me about the Fortin mods?

I am looking for an insane modern metal tone with tight low end and awesome punch.

I would like to hear about this as well.

 

[jensbrix]

Are you talking about the mods from the Fortin forum, or are you talking about something completely different?

 

[rockgod212]

not to take anything away from anybody working on these amps or what they have come up with, but im sorry guys if you really want to fix these amps the right way then check out my spec some pages back.....yes its a major overhaul or rebuild, but its so worth it in the end.......

with my spec. my green and red 1 channels sound the same tonally....anyway heres something that has always baffeled me about these amps.....
the green channel is so loud and full, but when i switch to red 1 (i do use a 1n brite cap on red channel, i prefer it with my spec) theres a volume drop, or compressed sound....both channels are at the same volume, only the gains are are at diferent settings......the green is voiced the same as the red, but the red only adds 1 stage, so what gives?

 

[rockgod212]

heres an update on my spec......i rebuilt this amp from the ground up and it was a labor of love for me to do it.....lots of trial and error, and lots of hours and playing invloved to get it to this final spec......

here is what i changed to revoice my dsl100.

*remove all of the input diod circuit stuff and just use the classic 68k input cicuit

1. 1.5k/1uf/220k plate
2. 3.3k lead 1/ lead 2 adds .47uf cap......1n brite cap on red 1 channel
3. 2.7k
4. 10k/ .1uf or .47uf on/off/on switched
5. 1k

c16-22n
r23-470p over plate
r29-470p over 470k
r37-470k/470k= 235k into 1meg pot with 470k wiper to ground...
*remove r39- r40 and replace with 1 meg pot pot
*change r41 to 120k to adjust reveb mix
*change grid resistors back to 5.6k
*NFB is switched to 100k/ 50k@ 4ohm tap with fixed resonance mod .0047uf, more natural lowend and when deep is engaged feel the earth shake without mush or fizz.....
*all voltage dropping resistors from filter caps are 10k, PI dropper are stock 4.7k
*switchable trebel peaker circuit. 470k/470p or 470k/2n2, the cap can be bypassed also.

*for those who are experienced enough.....do the bias mod (my schematic should get you there, but you need to know this amp to do it correctly, but if you do it, you wont regret it......it works and sounds great, and its alot easier to bias, just set it and forget it......study the amp schematic carefully as some of the components wont line up in their board positions, you will have to do some thinking......
*c36, c42, r77, r67, r69 will all go in their normal place on the board
*you will have to mount the board on short standoffs to make room under the board for the pot to mount to the chassis and r68 and the ground wiring, but its easy enough to do......also you get more air under the board for cooling.......
*marstran op tranny
*MM choke
*50uf mains
*50uf-screens
*33uf PI
*10uf-18uf preamp

the green channel will now give you plexi drive up to full on jcm800 on major steroids (the green channel will clean up when guitar vol. is rolled back).... the red 1 takes you into soldano gain territory, and red 2 takes you to a mesa/compressed type sound, but still sounds marshall'y.
the amp sounds absolutely killer now. this is how to build a high gain amp with out mush or fizz.....

happy modding.......

 

[sfb]

*remove all of the input diod circuit stuff and just use the classic 68k input cicuit
What is the diffirent with this mod and stock with diodes & beads.

 

[rockgod212]

i dont really know what its supposed to do, i just know theres a tone or sound difference without it......and i prefer it.....i mean that stuff was never on any other marshall....too many extra circuit stuff on this amp, that marshall claims is a safety feature....i call them tone robber circuits...

 

[RickyLee]

not to take anything away from anybody working on these amps or what they have come up with, but im sorry guys if you really want to fix these amps the right way then check out my spec some pages back.....yes its a major overhaul or rebuild, but its so worth it in the end.......

with my spec. my green and red 1 channels sound the same tonally....anyway heres something that has always baffeled me about these amps.....
the green channel is so loud and full, but when i switch to red 1 (i do use a 1n brite cap on red channel, i prefer it with my spec) theres a volume drop, or compressed sound....both channels are at the same volume, only the gains are are at diferent settings......the green is voiced the same as the red, but the red only adds 1 stage, so what gives?

In regards to the extra compression on the Red channel vs. the Green channel, you have to consider that the Red goes through an extra gain stage.

And then I am thinking there's a bit of inter-stage attenuation (I really should look back at the circuit/schematic before saying this one LOL) going on there to compensate the extra gain. The Green channel has a bit more AC audio signal swing or headroom somewhat.

I was just playing my modified DSL100 cranked up pretty good here at my house this evening along with my Ceriatone 2555 after putting new quads of power valves in each amp (Wing C EL34 in the DSL - GT KT66HP in the 2555).

My DSL is just very intense and amazing now. I am thinking all the work I did to it is settling in - mostly the 3 Henry choke and the ClassiscTone output transformer upgrade. My Red Lead 1 is the highlight of the amp now hands down.

 

[rockgod212]

ditto ricky lee.....i love my red channel now.....that makes sence about the headroom bewteen the 2 channels, i didnt think about that....i love my amp as well....but i dont play through it enough these days...im always using my metro 2203....