The Official Marshall DSL40c Information Thread

[Finnster]

I find the bottom end to be a bit flubby or farty.....are those words?? Lol

Anyway. Mine has M65 Creamback and C19 mod.

Would KT77's be an improvement for a tighter bottom end?

I generally run these settings:

Lead 1 and Crunch mode:

Crunch: gain 7 and volume 8
Ultra Lead 1: gain 3 and volume 6
Treble: 2
Middle: 4
Bass: 4
Presence: 2
Resonance: 5
Tone shift: out

 

[J.LaGrassa]

I find the bottom end to be a bit flubby or farty.....are those words?? Lol

Anyway. Mine has M65 Creamback and C19 mod.

Would KT77's be an improvement for a tighter bottom end?

I generally run these settings:

Lead 1 and Crunch mode:

Crunch: gain 7 and volume 8
Ultra Lead 1: gain 3 and volume 6
Treble: 2
Middle: 4
Bass: 4
Presence: 2
Resonance: 5
Tone shift: out

Try a pair of JJ E34L, also I had the Creamback 65 and though its a nice speaker its low end can be a bit flabby. The V-type I use stays nice and tight.

 

[Micky]

If you have the original OEM finals, then yes, new tubes will tighten up the lows.
JJ's, or my favorite, TAD's, will do wonders!

 

[Finnster]

Try a pair of JJ E34L, also I had the Creamback 65 and though its a nice speaker its low end can be a bit flabby. The V-type I use stays nice and tight.

What did you bias the "L's" at?

 

[Micky]

Well, it was next to last day of the holiday break for me, and I decided it was amp surgery time. With the test bench somewhat cleared off it was time to get to work...

I have had the new OT for the DSL40c for a while now, waiting for time to get it installed. (ClassicTone #18025)
Not knowing really what to expect, I was a little reluctant to swap it out as I have the 40c fine-tuned to exactly where I like it. No real upgrade was 'necessary' but I wanted to finalize the amp so I could finally dial it in and work on another I have a problem with...

Anyway, the OT upgrade is rather straightforward, remove the old one, drill a couple holes, and then install the new one. Thing is, it is never quite that easy...

Here is a photo comparison of the old OT vs. the new ClassicTone OT. You can see the original OEM OT is shorter and a bit fatter than the new one, you need to take this into consideration, especially if you have side handles installed in the cab...

The mounting brackets (feet) are the same width as the original, but the depth is shorter and will not fit the original mounting holes. To upgrade the OT you will need to drill 2 mounting holes for the feet, as well as a hole for a grommet to pass the output wires thru. Here you can see the drilled chassis ready to mount the grommet and OT:

Installation is straightforward, mount the OT, install a grommet and pass the wires thru. The output wires need to be trimmed and have spade lugs installed, I chose to put some heat shrink on the connectors although it may not be necessary. Also, this OT has a 4-ohm output, I thought about installing a switch for the 16-ohm jack, but then I thought about how often I run a 4-ohm load. (never) I put a spade lug on the wire anyway, if I wanted to use a 4-ohm output for whatever reason, I could pull the chassis and plug it in...

The primaries on this upgrade OT are where I ran into problems. Here is the final OT wiring guide:

OEM OT Wire To: ClassicTone OT
Grey CT1 White
Red V4 Red
Brn V3 Blue

The outputs are clearly labeled Purple=16-ohm, Orange=8-ohm, Black=Common and Yellow=4-ohm.

The inputs are marked clear enough, but as always, there is a 50/50 chance you will wire them in reverse. Since no one has clearly stated where each wire goes, I will do it here (above). In typical fashion, I initially connected them in reverse but failed to notice it until I got everything back together, even after testing things.

Generally I will never admit things like this, (obvious mistakes) but not knowing where to wire the primaries, there was a 50% chance I would get it right. Also a 50% chance I would get it wrong... Anyway I got it wired up OK, put everything in it's place and fired it up. Sounded great. I immediately notice a lot of clean headroom, and much more accurate bass response. So I put it all back together and moved it back downstairs, thinking I was finished...

Little did I realize I was testing it in triode mode (1/2 power) where the screen grids are tied to the plates of the tubes. When I switched to full power, the grids (G2) are disconnected from the plates and tied together, which created a horrible squeal when I took it off standby. Right then and there I knew I had the primaries reversed.

So a little more corrective surgery the day after remedied the situation. Blue wire soldered to the output of V3, red wire soldered to the output of V4. Both triode as well as pentode mode working fine now. Here is a shot of the installed OT:

Observations after the upgrade were that the clean is now ultra-clean, with the reverb very nice. Almost Fender clean... Crunch is more well defined, tighter bass and more creamy smooth distortion. Even more so in triode mode, as a matter of fact, everything sounds so much better in triode mode. Ultra channels sound deeper, and less harsh, I still can't seem to ever get the gain higher than 4 or so. I just don't need all that gain.

I am thinking I like triode (1/2 power) mode a lot more now, I seem to have more headroom at higher volumes and can turn up the gain more than I could before and still get the same crunch. I will still need to dial it in a bit more, especially if I connect it to a 4X12 at some point. But anyway, I have at least finished this amp for the time being, and I really need to concentrate on playing it more.

 

[J.LaGrassa]

What did you bias the "L's" at?

37mA

 

[USAPatriot]

Well, it was next to last day of the holiday break for me, and I decided it was amp surgery time. With the test bench somewhat cleared off it was time to get to work...

SNIP!

Good job, Micky! I hope it wasn't cranked when you flipped it over to pentode and got the squeal...

It'd be nice if these aftermarket guys would offer a few pre-drilled plates that we could use to match holes up instead of having to drill for an off-sized base.

Today was the first day in a month that I did not have to be somewhere. I slept in and am spending the day watching Dexter DVD's. I was supposed to have most of the last week off but instead filled in for someone with an emergency. The choke isn't critical but it does keep whispering my name... -Rod-

 

[dougb256]

I had the Creamback 65 and though its a nice speaker its low end can be a bit flabby. The V-type I use stays nice and tight.

I like tight bottom end *ahem*, so I ordered the V-type.

 

[Micky]

Good job, Micky! I hope it wasn't cranked when you flipped it over to pentode and got the squeal...

It'd be nice if these aftermarket guys would offer a few pre-drilled plates that we could use to match holes up instead of having to drill for an off-sized base.

Today was the first day in a month that I did not have to be somewhere. I slept in and am spending the day watching Dexter DVD's. I was supposed to have most of the last week off but instead filled in for someone with an emergency. The choke isn't critical but it does keep whispering my name... -Rod-

I've got NetFlix and all the Dexter episodes are there. Wish I had more time for TV. Breaking Bad is there as well. Somebody said Trailer Park Boys is hi-def now too...

I think the upgrade OT made the triode half-power mode come alive. I haven't had much time because of work (you know how it is...) as well as holidays, but initially I think the crunch and growl is sooooo much sweeter now.

With the amp modded out I think it is time for more playing...

 

[USAPatriot]

Hey Micky, with the larger transformer, did you have any issues getting the chassis back in? Hell, mine just barely clears the lip for the back cover. I have to either wiggle it through or just yank it out. I REALLY should trim that lip back a bit. -Rod-

 

[Micky]

Yes. It just barely clears the side handles.

What! Yours doesn't have side handles?

I wish I could find my luggage scale, I will bet this bitch weighs 60 pounds now...

 

[MarshallDog]

Has anyone tried KT77's in this amp. I know it will yield more clean headroom but I am curious what other experiences are if you have tried it and if it is possible to describe the tonal difference.

Also, would it be possible to install 6550's in this amp? I realize the bias resistor may need to be increased but would any other changes need to be done and would the amp handle the 6550's?

Thanks.

 

[DSMer]

Has anyone tried KT77's in this amp. I know it will yield more clean headroom but I am curious what other experiences are if you have tried it and if it is possible to describe the tonal difference.

Also, would it be possible to install 6550's in this amp? I realize the bias resistor may need to be increased but would any other changes need to be done and would the amp handle the 6550's?

Thanks.

Hey Marshall Dog, I have tried Genalex Gold Lion KT77. What I've notice is extended highs and bottom end. Brittle but not crunchy, bassy but not punchy. It wasn't that pleasing to my ear. Too hifi to me. GL KT77's sound great on my 6100 but not on the DSL40, don't really know why!!!

EL34 Winged =C= is my choice for DSL40. Mullard XF2's....sweeeet!!!

My EVH 5150III kills with RI GL KT66.

 

[MarshallDog]

Hey Marshall Dog, I have tried Genalex Gold Lion KT77. What I've notice is extended highs and bottom end. Brittle but not crunchy, bassy but not punchy. It wasn't that pleasing to my ear. Too hifi to me. GL KT77's sound great on my 6100 but not on the DSL40, don't really know why!!!

EL34 Winged =C= is my choice for DSL40. Mullard XF2's....sweeeet!!!

My EVH 5150III kills with RI GL KT66.

Thanks for the great info, based on this I think I will stay away from them for this amp seeing as you guided me in the right direction when changing out the caps in this amp a few months back

 

[Micky]

Has anyone tried KT77's in this amp. I know it will yield more clean headroom but I am curious what other experiences are if you have tried it and if it is possible to describe the tonal difference.

Also, would it be possible to install 6550's in this amp? I realize the bias resistor may need to be increased but would any other changes need to be done and would the amp handle the 6550's?

Thanks.

This is a great question, and certainly I think it needs more investigation.
I wish I had a greater stash of tubes, as I have wondered this as well.
Being kinda knowledgeable about this amp tends to make me want to experiment, but I am just like everyone else, and a pair of tubes just doesn't grow on or under trees...

If someone would like me to test a pair I could certainly entertain that...
As long as they sent them along to me!

 

[USAPatriot]

I don't recall if this is the right thread or not, but whatever. Over the last 3 days my wall voltage has varied from 124.4 to 122.1. There's about a 1.5V difference between the socket I tested from upstairs and the one I tested from downstairs. Downstairs is always lower than upstairs. I sent a message to the utility company and asked them to check the voltage at the meter. It's inconsistent, for sure. Maybe they'll feel bad for me and hand me a variac -Rod-

 

[flyfish-mt]

First off, let me commend you folks for starting and maintaining this great thread....Just a TON of useful information and I only got to page 10!!!

Well, I just picked one up from Sweetwater yesterday.....Couldn't pass up the deal my rep gave me. I got it with the Creamback speaker option and also asked for the original Seventy 80 which he gladly included. I haven't had the opportunity to put it through all the paces yet but will do so this weekend. So far it sounds really nice!

I am running a Carbon Copy, CE-3 and GE-7 through the effects loop and a CS-2 on the front end. I've played my 13' Trad w/ Dimarzio 36's and my 80' LP Custom w/ T-tops through it and they both sounded great. Still need to give my Strat a stab. This is my 4th Marshall as I have always been kinda' a Fender Deluxe Reverb/Twin Reverb guy over the past 35 years of playing. I've owned a Jubilee 2554, DSL15H, SL5 in the past and now this guy. Great sounding amp and it is no doubt the most versatile Marshall I have owned to date.

.........Now, back to page 11

 

[rpinon69]

First off, let me commend you folks for starting and maintaining this great thread....Just a TON of useful information and I only got to page 10!!!

Well, I just picked one up from Sweetwater yesterday.....Couldn't pass up the deal my rep gave me. I got it with the Creamback speaker option and also asked for the original Seventy 80 which he gladly included. I haven't had the opportunity to put it through all the paces yet but will do so this weekend. So far it sounds really nice!

I am running a Carbon Copy, CE-3 and GE-7 through the effects loop and a CS-2 on the front end. I've played my 13' Trad w/ Dimarzio 36's and my 80' LP Custom w/ T-tops through it and they both sounded great. Still need to give my Strat a stab. This is my 4th Marshall as I have always been kinda' a Fender Deluxe Reverb/Twin Reverb guy over the past 35 years of playing. I've owned a Jubilee 2554, DSL15H, SL5 in the past and know this guy. Great sounding amp and it is no doubt the most versatile Marshall I have owned to date.

.........Now, back to page 11

Welcome!

I have to agree! Love this thread great information it's really what sealed the deal for me, I have been loving my DSL40 for the last 6 months.

 

[flyfish-mt]

I was a bit skeptical reading talk about it not being made in the UK. I can't imagine the quality control is that much better?? I'll check in periodically with any useful information.

 

[flyfish-mt]

I did want to ask a question to all you DSL40 gurus. I have read in multiple posts that the factory bias isn't always correct and would like to check mine out. I do have an older Fluke 79 multimeter and some (very little) experience with light electronics......probably enough to shock the piss outta' me! Anyway, is there a tutorial that explains this process with pictures (I'm a visual guy)? I have read that the left trim pot controls the right valve and vise versa but that's about all I know about this process.