Amplifier furniture is finished

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Geeze

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Today was an adventure into the scary unknown. To quote one of my favorite dudes, W Churchill - "Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm."

Well there were failures, there was some loss of enthusiasm but I kept at it for most of the day except running out to get supplies.

First I thought I would use my benchtop drill press to bore a 3/8" hole through the leg and into the shelf. The thing about benchtop drill presses is they don't have a lot of Z - you know, X, Y & Z - or elevation for those of you who have been away from mathematics for a minute or two. So spin the base around and raise the whole thing up a couple of inches.

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Then another inch or so to get the mill vise under the drill press so the drill bit will line up with the bits needing drilled.

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I used the spade bit as a pointer to line things up. I needed to raise up the other end to keep it level.

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Only to discover that I'd need to indicate all eight holes and I wasn't confident in the pointer to make them even. Screw heads out of alignment are eye catching.

So I scraped that idea a couple hours in and decided to build a drill jig that would guide the bit and keep it centered. I did use the vise and outrigger setup to hold the shelf for drilling.

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Off to countersink for the 3" flat head screws. Countersinks have an annoying habit of vibrating while beveling a drilled hole. It's best to countersink then drill but that was beyond what I was willing to so I plugged the holes with a 3/8 dowel and it worked reasonably well.

Assembly time.

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I was pleasantly surprised that it sat flat on the floor without rocking.

Next will be the front shelf lip in between the legs then sanding and lacquer.

Russ
 

Geeze

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A couple more pics that didn't make it into last night's batch.

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The screws are metric and have a .020" larger diameter than the drilled hole so they thread themselves into the wood for an amazing hold. This was helpful as I scraped the original idea of boring out the 3/8" shelf hole to 1/2" and counterbore the first .080" to accept stainless threaded inserts.

Russ
 

TassieViking

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If I was anywhere near capable of making something that nice there is no way the boss would let me put guitar amps on that sucker. She would very quickly take possession when it was finished.
(I wear the pants but when she gets that glimmer in her eyes and start smiling like Mona Lisa she can make those pants disappear in a heartbeat, that's why she's the boss)
 

Geeze

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After spending most of the week sketching ideas for the shelf ends specifically wanting to avoid the basic but joint as gaps will show and bug me until the end of my time with it. I tried to mimic arcs starting from a point and tending to the lower lip edge - concave and convex. Angles and curves from top to bottom. Nope. All top to bottom solutions that would work but look like crap.

So I forced myself to start cutting and milling the shelf lip bits and came up with an easy to do [my personal favorite] round over from the front edge to the back edge of the lip effectively putting the 'joint' between the lip and the leg in shadow.

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Full speed ahead!

Russ
 

Geeze

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Shelf lips cut.

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Ends rounded via small bandsaw, oscillating sander, a few licks with a sanding block and then - in a stroke of genius if I do say so myself - I sanded the rounds 80/150/220 grit as it would be impossible to get in there to sand otherwise come finish time.

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One nice thing about the metric is the bolts I'm using are 10mm [3.937"] that thread themselves in to the 3/8" bit [.372" actual] used to drill the holes so I can use a 3/8" bolt as a push in alignment tool to ensure the lip is centered between the legs.

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Clamp porn.

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Three more to go then sanding time.

Russ
 

Geeze

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Lips glued and on to sanding, then filling the gaps with CA & accelerant.

Sanded with 60 grit to get all of the drum sander lines removed. Those pop out like a pimple when lacquered - always on the most visible bit.

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After and wet to raise the grain for the 80 / 150 / 220 sanding to come.

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This project is big enough that I may need to set up the kill room for lacquer.

Russ
 

Geeze

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Tonight was scuff sand the shelf I lacquered last night with 320 and hit it again with two overlapping coats. Then I brush lacquered the other shelf's bottom to seal the wood.

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So what does an impatient cockroach do when he wants to get this lacquer business finished BUT the top of shelf #2 was just lacquered and dry to the touch but not cured? Improvise and git er done with the aid of two U channel metal shelf parts and bits stuck in the leg holes to keep it off the fragile surface - that's what.

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Here's a couple of unsung heroes Minwax gloss spray lacquer - I used five cans for all the parts - and a lazy Susan [how did she get such a bad rap?] to spin the shelf to and fro to hit all sides of the 60" x 14.25" shelves without having to pick them up.

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Hopefully the next !!$@%^&*(#@!!! images will be this thing assembled. It may be a week or so before I put amps on it to allow the lacquer to fully cure.

Then off to the next crazy build - I'm thinking the Union Jack head needs a speaker cab...

Russ
 

ferrellrooster

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Shelf lips cut.

DkKtULT.jpg


VJP0Gpe.jpg


a3Mlv3q.jpg


Ends rounded via small bandsaw, oscillating sander, a few licks with a sanding block and then - in a stroke of genius if I do say so myself - I sanded the rounds 80/150/220 grit as it would be impossible to get in there to sand otherwise come finish time.

oSo7k1s.jpg


One nice thing about the metric is the bolts I'm using are 10mm [3.937"] that thread themselves in to the 3/8" bit [.372" actual] used to drill the holes so I can use a 3/8" bolt as a push in alignment tool to ensure the lip is centered between the legs.

w0xFchE.jpg


Clamp porn.

oLM2jkb.jpg


Three more to go then sanding time.

Russ
I think you need another clamp lol Just joking
 

ferrellrooster

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I finally stopped thinking I might have too many - the issue tends to be not enough of the ones I need NOW!

Russ
better to have to many. I hate getting to the point Im clamping something down and pissed because Im short a clamp or dont have one the right length. Then the glue starts to set and then and then and then and....ggrrrr:mad:...and then and then one time at band camp
 

ferrellrooster

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I finally stopped thinking I might have too many - the issue tends to be not enough of the ones I need NOW!

Russ
Ive got some of those orange handle ones like you got,. needed a few more and doing a project. Asked my uncle if he had a couple to save me a trip and he comes back with these clamps looked like from the 50's. Dont get me wrong, they worked the same way, but they kinda worked like one of those old car jacks that hooked onto your bumper that they dont make anymore. weighed about 20lbs each...Anyways.. Ill have to get a pic.
 

BlueX

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Stunning, as always! I love the beautiful wood you're using, and your woodworking skills, Russ.

Top sags a bit in the center I'll run a center support if I don't build a different top.
Maybe a back wall, covered with the same wall paper as in the room. Might be almost invisible, and a way to hide cables.
 
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Geeze

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Can you make a truss rod that long ?
I doubt it would help - I'd have to add several. Since I wanted this build to be pretty on both sides I'll stick with the center brace until a better idea comes along.

Casters added this morning. Luckily I test 'swung' both styles and noticed the rotten bastards who designed them had more 'reach' on the non locking than the locking. Erase lines and move them over another 5/16".

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The sun is playing hide and seek today.

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Still have to decide if I like the current top which has curly maple and cherry or build another with walnut and cherry.

Russ
 
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