Amplifier furniture is finished

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TXOldRedRocker

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^^^ Absolutely beautiful!

Personally, I wouldn't change a thing. I like the more subtle top as it's showing off what's on the shelf, in addition to the shelf itself. A too busy, very detailed top, draws more attention to the shelf than the contents. My :2c: .
 

fitz

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Still have to decide if I like the current top which has curly maple and cherry or build another with walnut and cherry.
Perhaps add some walnut edging on the top? :hmm:
Might also reinforce the long span and eliminate the need for a brace.
With a little assembly trickery, you could even introduce a subtle positive camber to offset any sag from a center load. :yesway:
 

TassieViking

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That's a nice looking piece of wood sitting on the top, it would look great as a mini Les Paul for traveling.
It looks just a bit too small for a full body but reduce the body by 75% and it might be ok.
I have seen lots that size on the net but never in person.

I really like the top as it is, the whole thing came out really good.
 

Geeze

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Absolutely beautiful!

Thank you! It certainly looks better than the wire rack I had before.

Perhaps add some walnut edging on the top?

It's scaled wrong thickness wise - I may turn it into a headboard, add a couple of hardpoints for bondage... I have lots of time to decide.

That's a nice looking piece of wood sitting on the top, it would look great as a mini Les Paul for traveling.

I bought that 5 years ago at the Dallas festival to make book matched guitar tops but I've got a ways to go on learning how to book match cut on a bandsaw without the blade curving through the cut. Not willing to waste the most expensive piece [per board foot] of wood I've bought to date.

Russ
 

BlueX

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Looks beautiful!
Personally, I wouldn't change a thing. I like the more subtle top as it's showing off what's on the shelf, in addition to the shelf itself. A too busy, very detailed top, draws more attention to the shelf than the contents.
I agree with this. The shelf should highlight the content, not the other way around. The dark knot already gives contrast to the top, so I would leave it as is.
 

SkyMonkey

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A guitarist (but mostly bassist) I used to live with once announced his idea of a 'Gui-Table".
He was probably drunk!
The premise was this: a coffee table that flipped over to reveal a lap steel guitar.

Genius or idiot. You decide.
 

Geeze

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So, back from the woodworkers show - so many excellent builds, so many ideas to purloin...

Really don't like the current top so build another one is in full swing. I've admired river tables but am too cheap to spend $350+ for gallons of epoxy so this one is a trickle table. I had extra epoxy from another project, so I smeared it into nooks, cracks and holes on a piece of cherry months ago.

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Sanded.

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Wet. Bronze or copper may have been a more interesting color. Too late now.

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Cut up some walnut and originally planned to have 5 planks with a finished width of 16"

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By the time I got all of the glue sides flat using shims to sand with.

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I had under 15" [mumble] and I noticed one of the walnuts had figure that just screamed to be on a leading edge. Mumble. New plan - add another walnut to get the width. One issue - it was only 40" long and I needed 64". Other issue the top would be visually unbalanced - walnut edge on one side and cherry on the other.

Thought and sketched a center 'plug' either 90°, 45° or even ran with the 31° of the union jack [alas, my 31° jig won't cut that wide of bits]. Tonight's epiphany was turn the whole center section sideways in alternating walnut / cherry / walnut the whole width of the table.

Pictures to come.

Russ
 

fitz

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Front edge walnut - far too pretty to 'trap' on an interior seam.
Agreed - that swirly walnut grain looks awesome.
Diggin' the alternating shorts across the middle of the panel. :yesway:
 

Geeze

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Getting the outside edges for gluing. Naturally the prettiest bit of walnut has some warp unhappiness that needs to be tamed so the top will lay flat. Trusty 72" straight edge, shims hot glued to keep the arch in so I can 'level' the other side. When that side is done I'll hit the reverse side ends to tame those.

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Glued.

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Gluing up the center blocks. I got lucky and decided to glue two 32" sections as I needed to run them through my saw to get the ends square.

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Top posed before gluing.

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Glued with just a couple clamps...

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I put a fresh 60 grit roll on the drum sanded in anticipation of sanding.

Russ
 

Geeze

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Got the bottom sanded [40 & 80 grit] and needed to deal with some unhappiness on an edge. I planned to round the edges and this was a good reason.

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Cut a 45° with a #3 high angle plane which removed most of it.

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I'll smooth it with 80 grit and sand in transition flats in preparation for rounding with the sander.

Now for the top. The cherry I used has some rotten or 'punk' areas that got the blue tinted epoxy as a filler a few months ago. As I sand with 40 grit AKA 'gravel parking lot' [40, 150 and 320 shown] it tore out more - thankfully in a flow pattern rather than ripping everything out.

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I brushed in more of the mica tint powder and sealed it with lacquer. Unfortunately lacquer has a dried thickness measured in 10ths [.0001"] so filling the voids fell to epoxy.

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It will yield a flat hard surface if I don't get carried away sanding. I pulled out a wide piece of curly maple that had defects and filled them up with the purposeful leftovers.

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Unlike lacquer or super glue [CA] + an accelerant the art grade epoxy takes 24 hours or more to cure. Bummer.

Russ
 
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