Fiddleback maple JMP2203 headshell

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Geeze

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Plugged the corner block notch outs and ready to sand -

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As hard as this stuff is I'm starting with 60 grit. Sanded well.

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Tomorrow will be rounding the edges, filling the gaps with CA and cutting the face plate and piping.

Russ
 

scott-colorado2016

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Dude! I wish I had an amp chassis without a cabinet... I would pay to have you build something this beautiful for me! FAN-DAM-TASTIC!!
 

Geeze

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Dude! I wish I had an amp chassis without a cabinet... I would pay to have you build something this beautiful for me! FAN-DAM-TASTIC!!

^^^ scott buys an amp chassis in 3...2...1 the GAS has engaged! lol

I was thinking -

Step one - look at the beautiful wood and imagine it in your space...
Step two - find a screw driver or allen wrench...

Sorry @coolidge56 I'm gonna dye it - twice!

Russ
 

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(spews drink) That was just mean spirited LOL

No, it looks fantastic, seriously. Lot's of skill and work in there too. Wood just never does it for me for some reason like tolex does. :shrug:

I think some high-grade leather incorporated into that would look great. Maybe lining the inside. Then again, there's the heat.
 
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clutch71

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I can see how square that whole thing is! So jealous of that! That grain is gonna pop!
 

Geeze

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I can see how square that whole thing is! So jealous of that! That grain is gonna pop!

28 music gear [cabs / head shells & combos + lots of furniture] later I think I'm getting there. One thing my acoustic guitar building buddy said - When it's close to square [89.99°] don't make it worse by trying to fix / recut it. That and a good sled for the tablesaw.

On to today's festivities - it looks like Marshall did a 1" round over and fudged a bit on the top and bottom thinner bits inner edges - I'll do the same.

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I draw witness lines to keep me honest when planing and sanding.

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Using a Stanley #3 plane I cut close to the 1/2" mark and then sand to it. The reason I do this rather laborious method and not a router is mostly for the tear out. Wood grain is chaotic and when planing or routing you want to go 'down hill' namely with the grain [not talking about cross cuts] so the blade is cutting 'down' and not tearing 'up' -

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No shade on the router lovers but I don't like them so save your breath / electrons.

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Planed. On the thin edges I'll do a compound radius - 1" at the top and 3/4" at the bottom to preserve the edge geometry.

Now off to sand.

Russ
 

Geeze

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Face plate time.

Cut to fit with piping and the control panel notch cut. I have two JMP 2203's and the corner rounds are crap and a bit bigger radius than I have a forestner bit for so I drilled 'em 1-1/8". Also cut the horizontal piping notch.

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Test fit.

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Now with a 3/4 round.

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Gratuitous shot.

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Now on to drawing the 9" logo on the face plate.

Russ
 

Geeze

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Told you that grain would pop! Looking good!

And that's only sanded to 120.

Marshall logo time -

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I use a dremel in a Stewmac plunge router rig with a 1/32" tapered bit. Milling commences -

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Some glamour shots -

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It occurred to m this morning that I should try the gold powder with the dye scheme to see how it looks. Gold with JMP2203's is not strictly kosher and I'm thinking a silver may look better - but alas I don't have any on hand. So one more M not routed as deep -

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Filled as I impatiently wait for full cure.

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Russ
 
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