Not to hijack the thread, and it might be interesting for the OP as well.
2x12 cab
Mini stack with 1x10's
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Newbie 1x12 cab build - there will be questions...
- Thread starter Dave_11
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2x12 cab
Mini stack with 1x10's
Same. Here's my latest builds as some reference for OP.
These cabs currently are housing my Ceriatone JTM45.
JCM600 Cab Builds - Done
(Just posted the same stuff on TTR, so If you frequent both, my apologies for the repeat.) Using up the last of these beat up old plywood frames that were used as forms to bend plastic around. Nice 3/4" plywood that I just cut in half and already have a face frame for a Marshall style speaker...
www.marshallforum.com
Thanks for the cab build links guys. It helps to look through other people's work to see how they did things. I really need to get some corner clamps and one of those drill guides!
@BlueX Love that 10" mini stack! I'm going to make a 10" baffle for my cab so I can try some of my 10" speakers in it. You were also asking about the depth of my cab -- it's 10". I have a 10" creamback but I haven't liked the sound in any cab/amp combo so far. I'll try it in this cab though - who knows.
@fitz Did you remove that 45 degree edge with a table saw before using the router? Is there a specific amount you take off, or do you just eyeball it?
@BlueX Love that 10" mini stack! I'm going to make a 10" baffle for my cab so I can try some of my 10" speakers in it. You were also asking about the depth of my cab -- it's 10". I have a 10" creamback but I haven't liked the sound in any cab/amp combo so far. I'll try it in this cab though - who knows.
@fitz Did you remove that 45 degree edge with a table saw before using the router? Is there a specific amount you take off, or do you just eyeball it?
Yes, table saw.
I held the router bit up against the end profile and made sure not to take more with the saw than I would with the router.
vmathias
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I built a 212 loaded with Jensen last year. I used pine with 1/2" birch for baffle and back. Birch is very strong, so I didn't bother with 3/4. Overall I am happy with the sound.
Time for a couple more questions...
1. How much room should I leave between the edge of the speaker baffle and the cabinet, to allow for grill cloth plus piping? I'm wanting this to match a 1x12 Marshall cab - is this the right piping?
2. For the back panels, how far in should I set the framing pieces to allow for the tolex? My back panel is 1/2" thick so I am asking how much over that should I go to leave room for the tolex that will be on the frame plus the tolex that will be on the panel?
I got all the rest or my framing pieces cut tonight, and will start gluing them in this weekend. Hopefully I'll have time to round over the edges, and fill/sand everything. Maybe even paint it...
1. How much room should I leave between the edge of the speaker baffle and the cabinet, to allow for grill cloth plus piping? I'm wanting this to match a 1x12 Marshall cab - is this the right piping?
2. For the back panels, how far in should I set the framing pieces to allow for the tolex? My back panel is 1/2" thick so I am asking how much over that should I go to leave room for the tolex that will be on the frame plus the tolex that will be on the panel?
I got all the rest or my framing pieces cut tonight, and will start gluing them in this weekend. Hopefully I'll have time to round over the edges, and fill/sand everything. Maybe even paint it...
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This depends on how you will mount your baffle.
If you mount it from the rear, onto the face frames, then you only need to consider the grill cloth. The different cloth I've got varies between 0,7 to 1,7 mm (0.03 - 0.07") in thickness. I would leave twice the cloth thickness plus 1 mm (0.04").
If you mount the baffle from the front you need the following clearance: twice the thickness of all three of tolex, piping lip, and grill cloth, plus 1 mm (0.04"). Piping will cover small gap.
Back panel thickness plus twice the tolex thickness, plus about 0,5 mm (0.02"). I prefer that the back panels are sligthly (0,2-0,3 mm, or 0.008-0.01") recessed.
You can estimate glue thickness with one sheet on writing/printer paper for each glue layer. Got this tip from another forum member here (forgot who).
At the front I prefer to wrap the tolex all the way around the face frame, onto the inside of the cab. However, I then cut away the tolex on the inside of the cab. Otherwise that tolex might interfere when you mount baffle from the back. It also looks nicer with open back.
At the back I prefer to wrap tolex all around the framing pieces, and also here cut away excess on the inside of the cab. Looks nice with open back.
Here are good Uncle Doug videos on applying/installing tolex and grll cloth.
I leave to others to comment on Mojotone products since I'm not familiar with them. Piping on my Marshall SV20H (head) and SV212 (cab) is 4,0 mm (0.16") wide/diameter.
@fitz is really experienced with tolex and grill cloth. He might add comments.
I can recommend using a flexible measuring band/tape (maybe wife/gf has one) when measuring for the pieces of tolex and grill cloth.
To match Marshall, use the 1/2 x 3/16 large piping.
For a front load baffle, I use a 1/8 gap all around for grill & piping (1/4 smaller than the opening in both directions), but for a rear load, the baffle is larger than the cab opening, and the piping is attached to the cab.
For just tolex, 1/16 for thickness is about right, so x2 or 1/8 all around again for tolex on cab & back panel.
Cut the back panel 1/4 smaller in each direction, and set the mounting cleats in 5/8.
Thanks again guys -- I really appreciate all the help.
I've started a list of hardware I will need, but I'm not sure what size feet to get. I was thinking the bigger the better, but my Ori 20 has little 5/8" (15.8 cm) feet. I'm thinking the 1.5" (38.1 cm) feet would be good. Is there an sonic advantage to smaller feet?
Also, there is a crack in the laminate in one panel (it can be the bottom). I can fill it, but cracks like these can push up over time. Will this show though the tolex?
I've started a list of hardware I will need, but I'm not sure what size feet to get. I was thinking the bigger the better, but my Ori 20 has little 5/8" (15.8 cm) feet. I'm thinking the 1.5" (38.1 cm) feet would be good. Is there an sonic advantage to smaller feet?
Also, there is a crack in the laminate in one panel (it can be the bottom). I can fill it, but cracks like these can push up over time. Will this show though the tolex?
For something like that, I'd just run a bead of wood glue down the length of it and smooth it over a bit with a finger.
But if you have the filler out for those screw holes, that'd work just fine also.
Rough sand off any chunky stuff when dry.
Bumps will show, but small cracks and dents don't matter much.
The backing cloth on the tolex, and the contact cement are not smooth, and will fill and span any little deviations like that.
I would also glue that crack, to avoid that it gets larger with time, and finish off with filler. There is some type of glue that can fill cracks without shrinking, but I don't know the English name for it. That's an alternative.
Regarding feet I would match the amp head. Just guessing, but I can't see any reason why there would be a sonic difference between 5/8" and 1 1/2" feet..
Regarding feet I would match the amp head. Just guessing, but I can't see any reason why there would be a sonic difference between 5/8" and 1 1/2" feet..
What?
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For a 112, ported does sound best, and I think by quite a bit. Never heard a ported 212. Have heard ported 412's but not enough to make a call on it.
I'm going to order the hardware. Can you guys please check my list and let me know if I left anything out? I'm ordering everything from Mojotone because they have everthing. If there is another US source I'd be happy to check it out.
Handle
Jack ferrule (cheap one; the Marshall one is like $15)
1/4" jack
Tolex (again, there is Marshall black levant but it's a lot more expensive)
Piping
Feet
Corners (cheaping out because Marshall corners are $24 per set)
I can get any screws I need locally.
@Mrmadd was right. Even cheaping out all that hardware is about $64 before shipping.
Anyhoo, got my cab all puttied up and did some sanding after the pic was taken. The rear framing glue was still drying, but I removed the screws and filled those holes tonight. Will sand, paint, and round over the edges tomorrow.
Handle
Jack ferrule (cheap one; the Marshall one is like $15)
1/4" jack
Tolex (again, there is Marshall black levant but it's a lot more expensive)
Piping
Feet
Corners (cheaping out because Marshall corners are $24 per set)
I can get any screws I need locally.
@Mrmadd was right. Even cheaping out all that hardware is about $64 before shipping.
Anyhoo, got my cab all puttied up and did some sanding after the pic was taken. The rear framing glue was still drying, but I removed the screws and filled those holes tonight. Will sand, paint, and round over the edges tomorrow.
I plan to screw the baffle in so I can switch between 12" and 10", so I could always cut a new baffle with a port to hear how it sounds.
Looks good!
How about grill cloth?
You need rivets for the corner guards: https://www.mojotone.com/Mojotone-Silver-Rivets
You also need wiring between speaker and jack. Here's one set with jack already soldered: https://www.mojotone.com/Wiring-Har...-Series-or-Parallel-with-Switchcraft-J11-Jack
How will you mount the back panel(s)? If you plan to test different speakers, and speaker sizes, I would use threaded inserts to mount speaker, baffle, back panel(s), and also the handle. Mojotone has T-nuts in different sizes: https://www.mojotone.com/Tee-Nuts-8-32-X-1-4_2
I recommend this kind of decorative washer (different types, sizes, finishes), together with suitable chromed or stainless screws, to mount the back panel(s): https://www.mojotone.com/Blackface-Style-Medium-Chrome-Decorative-Washers
You will need staples and staple gun for grill cloth and piping. To apply tolex you need contact glue. I prefer water based (solvent based smells terribly), and use both brush and roller to apply.
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How could I forget grill cloth? 
Ha ha, thanks @BlueX I'll add it to my list.
Thanks for all of the other suggestions. I have some wire and spade connectors I can use. I like the t-nut idea for attaching different baffles, but I'm not sure I could hide those under the tolex on the front frame. I'm sure someone with experience could do it, but I don't have a drill press to make the recessed cuts and would probably make a mess of it. I think there are other mounts that will screw into a simple hole in the wood though, so I'll look for some of those at my hardware store. Most other things I plan to buy locally as well - screws to mount the corners, decorative washers/screws for the back panels, contact glue, brushes, etc. I have a staple gun already.
Ha ha, thanks @BlueX I'll add it to my list.Thanks for all of the other suggestions. I have some wire and spade connectors I can use. I like the t-nut idea for attaching different baffles, but I'm not sure I could hide those under the tolex on the front frame. I'm sure someone with experience could do it, but I don't have a drill press to make the recessed cuts and would probably make a mess of it. I think there are other mounts that will screw into a simple hole in the wood though, so I'll look for some of those at my hardware store. Most other things I plan to buy locally as well - screws to mount the corners, decorative washers/screws for the back panels, contact glue, brushes, etc. I have a staple gun already.
3/4" is close to the metric dimension of the edge round over on Marshall cabs, but there's more than one way to get there. The corners are not going to sit tight on a 1/2" radius. Even at 3/4, you may need to flatten off the rounded corner of the wood under the plastic piece. (Marshall does...)
If you've ever followed any of Russ' mind blowing hardwood cab builds, he does the edge round overs completely with graduating degrees of rough to fine sanding.
You could use the 1/2", or even a 45 degree bevel (bit or table saw) to get part way there and sand the rest of the way.
If you factor in the cost of tools, in addition to all the materials, parts and pieces, home builds start to give you an appreciation of the "outrageous" retail costs of cabs you can buy...
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