Newbie 1x12 cab build - there will be questions...

[Dave_11]

Thanks @fitz. I went back and saw they do have the specs, which as you said are 3/4. They have some 1/2" corners, so I'll just buy those and use the bit I have.

If you build a lot of cabs, etc. then the money you spend on equipment is justifiable, but for a one-off it gets harder and harder with each added $. The Mojotone order is up to $100 now, so at least I get free shipping...

 

[Dave_11]

Note to self: furniture grade plywood with its thin outer laminate layer is NOT router friendly.



In hindsight, I probably should have ran the router base on top of the plywood. Maybe that would have prevented the tear-out. I had some fixable tear-out in some other routs, but this is beyond what I want to deal with. At this point I think I'm going to cut the laminate flakes off, put a thick coat of paint on the cab and use it as-is.

When I get some more motivation, I'll see if the local lumber yard has some decent 1x10 pine and use that to make another cab.

 

[BlueX]

Note to self: furniture grade plywood with its thin outer laminate layer is NOT router friendly.

View attachment 133488

In hindsight, I probably should have ran the router base on top of the plywood. Maybe that would have prevented the tear-out. I had some fixable tear-out in some other routs, but this is beyond what I want to deal with. At this point I think I'm going to cut the laminate flakes off, put a thick coat of paint on the cab and use it as-is.

When I get some more motivation, I'll see if the local lumber yard has some decent 1x10 pine and use that to make another cab.

Sorry 'bout this! Orientation of the outermost layer can matter. Covering with tolex you can fix this with filler and sanding, 2 or 3 times to build enough thickness. Just remove all loose parts.

I always see my first projects of any kind as learning, expecting additional work and cost, and hopefully take advantage next time.

 

[BlueX]

In case you decide to tolex, here are some pic's from my current project. Using similar tools as for wall paper:
- Knife with really sharp blade (sharp is the solution to all problems)
- Sharp scissors, preferably with pointy ends
- Brush and roller
- Flexible plastic scraper, to smoothen out tolex and to press it into corners
- Medium hard roller to go over tolex with pressure once ready

Depending on how you install piping, you might need to cut the lip in corners (if the lip isn't pre-cut).

 

[Dave_11]

Thanks for the tolex pics. I'm still undecided on whether I want to try to salvage this or just start fresh. If I start fresh then I could use what I learned on this one to make the next one better. Or I could cut about 3/4" inch off the front of this one using the table saw. That would eliminate most of the tear-out. Then I could use the 3/4x1-1/2 pine that I have left and make a face frame for the front and re-rout. Hmmm...

 

[fitz]

A couple router tips to minimize tear-out - sorry it's after the fact.
Keep the bit bearing on the veneer side so the widest part of the cutting surface is across the end of the plys.
Move the router so the cutting edge is always coming down at the wood in the direction of movement, not up through the wood as it's cutting - if that makes sense...

Your cab is definitely salvageable.
Either wood filler and sanding, or cut & face frame as you suggested.
Tolex hides a multitude of woodworking sins.

 

[Dave_11]

I cut 1" off the front and added a face frame -- that took off almost all of the tear-out.
I'll let the glue dry and have another go with the router tomorrow night.

 

[pulsonicsound]

Yea you don’t make cabs yourself to save money!! You do it because it’s fun, well at least I find it fun, it also gives a great understanding of how a cab is made.

Baltic birch plywood is the best wood for routing as the tear out is minimal, fwiw that tear out could have been fixed as mentioned above with wood filler, sanding and tolex.
!

Hit me up if you need a Cliff Jack cup, I have a few modern marshall spec ones kicking about!

 

[Dave_11]

Thar she blows!


All routed and ready for sanding. Baffle is just sitting loose in there, so never mind the gap. The left side is the one that had the horrendous tear-out. After cutting it off, I only had to use a little filler.

Now if anyone wants to share their sanding secrets for the round-overs, I'm all ears. Do you cut out a profile to match the round-over to check as you go, or just eyeball it? I'm guessing a long sanding block would be good to get the edges even. Belt sander? Orbital sander? Wood file?

 

[fitz]

Now if anyone wants to share their sanding secrets for the round-overs, I'm all ears. Do you cut out a profile to match the round-over to check as you go, or just eyeball it? I'm guessing a long sanding block would be good to get the edges even. Belt sander? Orbital sander? Wood file?

Looks great!

Going from 1/2" to 3/4"?
I'd suggest making some 3/4" reference lines down each side of the radius.
Start with aggressive tools / grits like a belt sander, and ease off as you get closer to the reference lines with something like a 1/4 sheet palm sander.
Having a profile to check progress sounds like a great idea.
And like someone here once said, "just use your eye-crometer".
Perfection is not a requirement, and anything smoother than the tolex backing is a waste of time.
I actually think a level but kinda rough surface lets the contact cement have something to hold onto.

 

[Dave_11]

Going from 1/2" to 3/4"?

Sorry for the confusion - I'm sticking with a1/2" round-over. I ordered 1/2" corners from Mojotone. I'm just wondering how to clean up the router round-overs. Most of them were pretty good, but the bottom edge has some wobble. Thankfully it's on the bottom of the bottom edge, and not the front of the bottom edge.

 

[fitz]

Sorry for the confusion - I'm sticking with a1/2" round-over. I ordered 1/2" corners from Mojotone. I'm just wondering how to clean up the router round-overs. Most of them were pretty good, but the bottom edge has some wobble. Thankfully it's on the bottom of the bottom edge, and not the front of the bottom edge.

Ah, I'd just smooth it up a bit with a palm sander or sanding block with something like 120-150 grit.

 

[Dave_11]

Went to the big box store today to get some things for the house and some things I'll need to finish this cab. Came home to find my Mojotone box had arrived. Guess I'll be attempting a tolexing this weekend.

Bad news is the rear Mojotone corner protectors are made for a round-over on all surfaces, so they won't fit on a flat back Marshall style cab, which is how I made it. There's no way I'm chancing another rout to the back, so I'm trying to find some 1/2" rear corners that will work with a flat back. If anyone knows where I can get some for cheap, let me know.

 

[Dave_11]

I started applying tolex to the smaller back panels, and I'm using this contact adhesive.
I don't think I will be able to tolerate the fumes for the big cab tolex job, so I'm wondering if anyone knows a decent water based contact adhesive that's less smelly. Also wondering how the Mojotone adhesive smells -- maybe I should have sprung for the $46 bottle...

 

[pulsonicsound]

I do a lot of tolexing inside so prefer using water based stuff

I can recommend

Tolex Glue SG5, 500 ml

waterbased Tolex-Glue, 500 ml How To use ? The glue must be applied onto the wood and the Tolex. After a dyring time of ca. 30 min the Tolex can be put onto the wood. And how much glue do you need ? The can of 500 ml is enough ...

www.tube-town.net

A coat on the tolex, a coat on the cab - wait for the glue to totally dry and apply!

That stuff is latex based so I am sure you can find an equivalent stateside

 

[fitz]

I'm using this contact adhesive.

That's what I use.
I think it's easier to use than the latex stuff.
Latex takes much longer set time before you can put it on.
Sure, the VOC's can give you a little buzz, but if you're not using it daily as stress management, I doubt it causes any permanent...
What was the question?

 

[Dave_11]

Thanks @pulsonicsound and @fitz
I can get this locally, but I'm just wondering how well it works. I guess I'll find out, because I can't take that other stuff. My mouth and nose are burning just from three little panels.

 

[pulsonicsound]

Yea you don’t want to do any driving or operating heavy machinery after using contact adhesive, with these things @Dave_11 you just have to try a few different glues and see what works for you!

 

[fitz]

Thanks @pulsonicsound and @fitz
I can get this locally, but I'm just wondering how well it works. I guess I'll find out, because I can't take that other stuff. My mouth and nose are burning just from three little panels.

It works fine, just needs a longer wait for it to set.

 

[Dave_11]

Finally got my cab finished (mostly finished anyway). This is with the 10" baffle. I had some of the large check grill cloth left over from an Ori 5 baffle job. I have some Marshall style black grill cloth for the 12" baffle. Back is 3-pieces, so I can remove the center piece to make it open or closed back. And I promise it's square -- my phone camera was playing games with me and I couldn't get a pic where it looks square. It doesn't look too bad as long as you don't look too close.
Thanks much too all who helped! I couldn't have done it without the help.