The Official Marshall DSL40c Information Thread

[Rahlstin]

Get a few good spare tubes that you know are good. I keep a full set of Pre's and Pwr's in my gig box just incase.

 

[60Cycle]

The Chinese Marshall-branded chrome plate preamp tubes that come OEM in this amp are actually pretty good, but every once in a while you get a dud. Damage in shipment, lesser QC and a bunch of other factors contribute to premature tube failure.

The chrome plates are kinda bright, and that is one of the first things people want to do when they get this amp, is tame the brightness.

I use my OEM tubes as my spare set.

Like I said, mine were noisy, liked to crackle and hiss and hum. Every set of CP tubes were so much cleaner and it was the same story with my JVM. The AFD tubes went south quick, but who knows with that thing. Its in the Marshall factory repair center down south.

 

[Bobby D]

update..
yup it worked, bad pre amp tube.

 

[Bobby D]

bye the way.. what pre amp tubes are people using in these puppies to warm em up a bit? i usually grab ehx or tung sols.. any suggestions?

 

[60Cycle]

bye the way.. what pre amp tubes are people using in these puppies to warm em up a bit? i usually grab ehx or tung sols.. any suggestions?

I liked the Mullards but I put the Tung Sols back in to spend some more time with them in there. Theyre sounding quite snazzy thru the 1960 with Marshall Vintage and G12T-75's.

 

[Micky]

Here is what is in mine:

http://www.marshallforum.com/marsha...l-dsl40c-information-thread-6.html#post941017

 

[ken361]

Here is what is in mine:

http://www.marshallforum.com/marsha...l-dsl40c-information-thread-6.html#post941017

I have a GE 12ax7 WA in the v1 it works well and the Sylvania v4 in mine also! RFT v2 for now and a old groove tube Penta M Mullard ŖI v3.

 

[Natedog_37]

Well got to play with the amp this weekend. Over all I do like it. Different from my line6 HD150. Don't get the air pressure feeling I am us to with 4x12 cab. One thing I noticed is HOLY HELL you get some ear breading high end. Had to back that way down. will break her in and see how it goes. really looking for is a good EQ for the clean and lead channels I like. Going to take some time. Love the way my bad Monkey, and Chorus sound though it though.

Deff have a ton to learn with V1, V2 tubes etc. also been a solid state person.

 

[lordquilton]

bye the way.. what pre amp tubes are people using in these puppies to warm em up a bit? i usually grab ehx or tung sols.. any suggestions?

I tried both of those in V1, I wouldn't describe either of them as warm.
These are popular, says here there's a new shipment in-
Ruby 12AX7AC7 HG+
By all reports well worth a try.

I tried an old Mullard in V1, it was amazing but I lost the tight muscly bass that I love in the Green channel. So I put it in V2. That plus the TAD EL34B-STR power tube's really make the onboard reverb blossom.

The stock preamp valves are Marshall branded JJ ECC83-S with chrome plating, bright like Micky said. So I went with the same tube but with the dark gray plates.
Some say they're too dark sounding, but it's a bright kind of amp so it evens out nicely imo.
I got the gold pin version in V1 because they test in the top 10% at the factory. Warm, clear and with an expressive midrange is what I hear.

Get those Ruby's while they're hot I reckon.

 

[Micky]

The Rubys are a very popular tube. I have a couple, one as a spare and another I think in my DSL5c V1 slot. Very clean, noise-free with a lot of gain on tap.

 

[Natedog_37]

Anyone have a link explaining what V1,V2,V3,V4 etc all mean? Been reading this huge thread but getting lost. Need some tube 101 learning.

 

[ken361]

V1, closest to the input jack, is the input tube and works with Ultra channel. V2 and V3 work with both channels. V4 is the inverter. V1-V3 kind of really work on all channels.

 

[Micky]

V1, closest to the input jack, is the input tube and works with Ultra channel. V2 and V3 work with both channels. V4 is the inverter. V1-V3 kind of really work on all channels.

Here I go again... You need to remember each preamp tube is 2 tubes in 1...

For the DSL40c & DSL100h:

V1a is the input buffer, it is used on both the Classic and Ultra channels.
V1b is the first gain stage of the Ultra channel, it is not used in the Classic channel.

V2a & V2b are additional gain stages, fed from V1 and used on both channels.

V3a is the final gain stage, both channels are fed into this tube, which feeds...
V3b which is the tone stack. This is the final preamp tube before the power stage.

V4a & b inputs are bridged together, and this is the Phase Inverter tube. The output from V4a & b each feed one of the final power tubes.

Hope this helps...

 

[ken361]

Im just posting what Marshall sent me

 

[riefil]

Here I go again... You need to remember each preamp tube is 2 tubes in 1...

For the DSL40c & DSL100h:

V1a is the input buffer, it is used on both the Classic and Ultra channels.
V1b is the first gain stage of the Ultra channel, it is not used in the Classic channel.

V2a & V2b are additional gain stages, fed from V1 and used on both channels.

V3a is the final gain stage, both channels are fed into this tube, which feeds...
V3b which is the tone stack. This is the final preamp tube before the power stage.

V4a & b inputs are bridged together, and this is the Phase Inverter tube. The output from V4a & b each feed one of the final power tubes.

Hope this helps...

Micky, would I be correct in assuming the 3 Ruby tube I have would work best in v1, 2 and 3? I also have a 12ax7LPS that I used in my Maz Jr. for the Inverter. Do you think that would work in V4?

Thanks,

Phil

 

[Micky]

Micky, would I be correct in assuming the 3 Ruby tube I have would work best in v1, 2 and 3? I also have a 12ax7LPS that I used in my Maz Jr. for the Inverter. Do you think that would work in V4?

Thanks,

Phil

Yes. Just remember that the Ruby is a hi-gain tube, that is, it may have more than 100% gain. Note I said 'may'...

The Ultra channel already has more gain than any normal person would ever use. Note I also said 'normal'...

The LPS should be fine in V4.

The whole point is, try them to see where you like them the best.

 

[riefil]

Yes. Just remember that the Ruby is a hi-gain tube, that is, it may have more than 100% gain. Note I said 'may'...

The Ultra channel already has more gain than any normal person would ever use. Note I also said 'normal'...

The LPS should be fine in V4.

The whole point is, try them to see where you like them the best.

I found that the Rubys in the Maz had more of a smooth gain, even though the was more on tap, if that makes sense. I'm hoping to quiet things down a little bit. Right now with any volume I get quite a bit of noise on both channels, obviously more on Ultra gain.
Hopefully I'll have some down time this coming weekend to swap them out.

Phil

 

[Natedog_37]

Micky thank you that is what I needed.

 

[Bobby D]

thanks for all the info, I came across this great article on Phase Invertor tube choices that really helped me. I hope it helps you all as well

http://www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com/files/Phaseinverter.pdf

 

[ken361]

LPS is decent in most amps but I found the Sylvania Baldwin even better, there all over ebay pretty cheap. Can use then in diff spots also because there smooth with a nice top end, make sure there tested for microphonics!