The Official Marshall DSL40c Information Thread

[whitecloud]

Guitar sounded really good little surprised red 1 nice and thick a tad bassy but not bad at all,Hells Bells! No buzzing,stays in tune good.Have to say China has good quality control. I bet a better humbucker will be just right,not harsh at all for ceramic. I owned a Traditional Les Paul a few months ago.The ET 65 speaker is working well! Crunch Highway to Hell sounds good too.

You know I didn't read your post close enough to realize you already bought this guitar or I wouldn't have recommended the Agile for just a bit more. No doubt the 3100 series is quite a jump up. That said glad the Epi is working for you and I bet there are some pups that would be appropriate without being overkill if you upgrade. I recommended the ET-65 to a friend that has a Class 5 and it was on of my candidates for the DSL40c but I ended up ordering a WSG Retro 30 so will have to go through the break in process when it lands.

 

[ken361]

You know I didn't read your post close enough to realize you already bought this guitar or I wouldn't have recommended the Agile for just a bit more. No doubt the 3100 series is quite a jump up. That said glad the Epi is working for you and I bet there are some pups that would be appropriate without being overkill if you upgrade. I recommended the ET-65 to a friend that has a Class 5 and it was on of my candidates for the DSL40c but I ended up ordering a WSG Retro 30 so will have to go through the break in process when it lands.

Let us know how the speaker works out,guy on another board GP said it took for ever to breaking in the WGS speakers. While WGS says 10 to 20 hrs

 

[whitecloud]

I read how some put the amp face down on the floor while running a looper and thought how would that work with a input on the front but got to thinking of using the return of the FX loop. So I could run a looper and or an iPod unless there is something I am not getting. so will try running
something back into the return of the amp today for a brief test. If it's a go, that's what I'll do when I receive the Retro 30

 

[Bownse]

You can do a white or pink noise generator on the speaker to speed up break in, but with a tube amp, I'd be more inclined to leave the amp oriented in an upright position for less stress on the tubes.

JBL has an audio track for burning in their speakers. Put it onto a player of some kind and leave it in a loop for their 40-hour recommended time. Last I looked it was something like 72 hours for a set of Bowers & Wilkens cans. Their instructions call for medium volume but that would be pretty loud in 40watt mode for 40 hours unless you had a sound proof room. I would never run it above about 30% volume for breaking in and extend the duration based on how much lower you run the volume (30% @ 40watts would mean -20% of recommended volume so increase recommended time by 20% or 40+(40*0.2)=48 hours). Their sample includes a broad selection of frequencies so you aren't just hitting one range based on your music preference.

Here's one person's opinion about break in.

 

[ken361]

I don't know if its the lower bias or the WGS ET65 over the WGS British Lead speaker the Lead 2 does a very good Metallica tone better now with my cheaper Epiphone Les Paul special then my old Gibby Trad pro II with the British Leads and bias at 35 or so. Its still fat like before maybe better sounding mids and treble from the new speaker,sounds huge in the basement's condo. I know at my house wont be as full because the basements not finished with carpet and a drop ceiling. The crunch is a bit thick though but loving the red now more then before. Have to try to record loud sometime soon.

 

[rlowe]

A few days ago I hooked up a new pair of Polk audio loudspeaker towers just purchased, and Polk subwoofer with stereo receiver. Playing it along with the Dsl40c and of course a few of my favorite tracks sounds really sweet. Careful not to turn that subwoofer up too loud as it can vibrate the house very well. I don't know as far about breaking these speakers in, but I read somewhere that most drivers are pretty much broken in at testing with the manufacturer. They sure sound nice with the amp though.

 

[whitecloud]

Tha

You can do a white or pink noise generator on the speaker to speed up break in, but with a tube amp, I'd be more inclined to leave the amp oriented in an upright position for less stress on the tubes.

JBL has an audio track for burning in their speakers. Put it onto a player of some kind and leave it in a loop for their 40-hour recommended time. Last I looked it was something like 72 hours for a set of Bowers & Wilkens cans. Their instructions call for medium volume but that would be pretty loud in 40watt mode for 40 hours unless you had a sound proof room. I would never run it above about 30% volume for breaking in and extend the duration based on how much lower you run the volume (30% @ 40watts would mean -20% of recommended volume so increase recommended time by 20% or 40+(40*0.2)=48 hours). Their sample includes a broad selection of frequencies so you aren't just hitting one range based on your music preference.

Here's one person's opinion about break in.

Thanks for your comments and tips. I just had a great idea that will make this process more safe for the DSL40c and for my sanity. I can put the WSG Retro 30 in my 1x12 cab and play any of my amps through it. I downloaded and put the audio mp3 file you suggested in my iPod and briefly played my VHT through the 1x12 face down. I can live with slight bleed. Also will run a looper into it as well playing the riffs I normally do. Another plus since it wouldn't be in the DSL right away can try it with it as an extension cab also my Orange Dark Terror and VHT. This way I don't have to wait to hear it with the DSL as hear the difference as it breaks in and hearing it with my other amps another plus before I end it sticking it in combo where I hope I am satisfied enough to want it to stay there.

 

[Michaeld13]

Anxiously waiting for the vintage style Dsl40 from Musicians Friend- been on back order for a while. Will run it with a 2x12 extension cabinet - it's the 50watt Vox Nighttrain cab, so it has 2 G12h anniversaries in it. Been waiting over a month and still on back order...

 

[Michaeld13]

Oh, and I'm in the "read all the posts" club- enjoyed it over a month or so....

 

[Gustavo Millan]

Sorry if this was already asked ...
Im about to replace mine with a celestion creamback. My question is.. the new GM12-65 has 8 mounting slots while the stock have 4. Do i need to modify in any way the amp? Or should i just use 4 of the 8 holes of my new speaker? Thanks a lot

 

[ken361]

no just use the 4

 

[David Neely]

I just recently picked up a dsl40 and am planning on swapping the speaker to a creamback and was wondering if anyone had tried or know anything about using the neodymium creamback in the dsl40. Will it give similar results as the ceramic magnet version? TIA.

 

[ken361]

might be a version on you tube

 

[Msharky67]

I am waiting too for one. The suspense is killing me. I am waiting for MLK Day for some coupons. I had a broken one for a couple days and even though it was tough to see the damage it sounded sick. I know its good. Hang in there it will be worth the wait.

Anxiously waiting for the vintage style Dsl40 from Musicians Friend- been on back order for a while. Will run it with a 2x12 extension cabinet - it's the 50watt Vox Nighttrain cab, so it has 2 G12h anniversaries in it. Been waiting over a month and still on back order...

 

[BanditPanda]

I just recently picked up a dsl40 and am planning on swapping the speaker to a creamback and was wondering if anyone had tried or know anything about using the neodymium creamback in the dsl40. Will it give similar results as the ceramic magnet version? TIA.

Magnet Type
The three different types of materials used in speaker magnets are Alnico, Ceramic (Ferrite) and Neodymium. Each material has a different effect on the tonal characteristics of the speaker.

Alnico, the original magnet material used in speakers, produces a classic tone. Alnico magnets tend to be a bit more expensive due to their cobalt content. These speakers sound warmer and sweeter at lower volumes and many musicians feel they react more quickly to the player's touch.

Ceramic magnets were developed as an inexpensive alternative to Alnico. These speakers have a few advantages: they do not cost as much, are more versatile and create a wide range of tones. Both the Vintage and MOD™ ceramic speakers tend to weigh more, generally handle more power and sound better at high volumes.

Neodymium is the newest material being used for speaker magnets. Price-wise they fall between Alnico and ceramic magnet speakers. These speakers respond to a player's touch much like Alnicos and they have a well balanced frequency response. The major advantages of these magnets are weight and efficiency. A neodymium speaker weighs about 50% less than other speakers without giving up power or tone. Neodymium speakers are especially good in large, heavy amplifiers or amplifiers that have more than two speakers.

 

[Michaeld13]

Thanks Sharky. I have a Vox night train that I really like that I've been using for a while. So I'm planning on trying a dry/wet setup with an aby box. But yes c'mon already. Long back order wait. Just thought the vintage looked so cool it would be worth waiting for...

 

[David Neely]

Magnet Type
The three different types of materials used in speaker magnets are Alnico, Ceramic (Ferrite) and Neodymium. Each material has a different effect on the tonal characteristics of the speaker.

Alnico, the original magnet material used in speakers, produces a classic tone. Alnico magnets tend to be a bit more expensive due to their cobalt content. These speakers sound warmer and sweeter at lower volumes and many musicians feel they react more quickly to the player's touch.

Ceramic magnets were developed as an inexpensive alternative to Alnico. These speakers have a few advantages: they do not cost as much, are more versatile and create a wide range of tones. Both the Vintage and MOD™ ceramic speakers tend to weigh more, generally handle more power and sound better at high volumes.

Neodymium is the newest material being used for speaker magnets. Price-wise they fall between Alnico and ceramic magnet speakers. These speakers respond to a player's touch much like Alnicos and they have a well balanced frequency response. The major advantages of these magnets are weight and efficiency. A neodymium speaker weighs about 50% less than other speakers without giving up power or tone. Neodymium speakers are especially good in large, heavy amplifiers or amplifiers that have more than two speakers.

Thanks! That actually helps a lot. I decided to go ahead and pull the trigger and give one a shot. I'll post my thoughts on it when I get it installed and test it out.

 

[Micky]

Oh, and I'm in the "read all the posts" club- enjoyed it over a month or so....

It's a lot of reading, and sometimes difficult to wade thru the needless stuff, but it is well worth it.
A lot of people have poured their lives into this amp and thread, and the reference material here alone is worth it's weight in gold.

 

[Michaeld13]

Indeed Micky! I was at a job site today near my local guitar center so figured I'd pop in and see if they had a 40C- and they did! (also a 100 on the floor)- I had never played through one only heard someone else another time I was in there and I thought it sounded great... so I picked up a medium grade Les Paul and sat on the floor- wow there are a lot of sounds in there. I know others have said that, but it's true. My first impressions: man this thing has a lot of BITE, BALLS and CRUNCH! Very full sounding. Easily heard the reverb. Nothing like my Night Train. Did not think it was overly "trebley"- bright yes, but nothing that bothered me. I actually think it's going to pair awesome with my fuzz face that is a pretty dark fuzz- which makes sense since it was Marshalls they were designed to work with... So I guess I keep waiting for M.Friend to get the retro version in, but I'm glad I got 15 minutes with it.

 

[guitardude57]

You are correct in a lower cap being less brite and a higher cap being more brite. I did try a 5751 in V1 and it made very little difference that I could tell in all channels. Obviously, turning the gain down made a big difference compared to the 5751 in V1. Congrats on finally getting the amp...

Backwards...the larger the cap value, the more low end, and the smaller the cap value, the less low end, which equates to more high end...