Broken solder pad - suggestions?

[psychic_fuzz]

Well my one worst nightmares happened while working on my JMP 2204…I lost a little bit of solder pad

In an attempt to eliminate the amount of time/heat I put on the board I tried using one of those electronic solder suckers. It did it’s job, but was just too much. Never again! (the rest of the amp is fine btw)

What’s the best step forward?

(Warning graphic images )

 

[stratfordade]

Doesn’t look too bad. You’d probably succeed attempting to solder to what’s left, or just make that connection on the topside to any convenient leg of the other two components wired to that land on the board.

 

[Matthews Guitars]

Solder suckers are SAFER for the pads than using solder wick. But if you heat up any pad long enough, its adhesive bond to the board WILL fail.

Sometimes you can superglue the lifted pad down. It'll stink when you solder it but if you're quick it'll hold. Otherwise just use fine wire strands to bridge and rebuild the damage.

 

[psychic_fuzz]

use fine wire strands to bridge and rebuild the damage.

Thanks for the input. Can you elaborate a little a bit more on this? I’ve never used this method. Thanks!

I was also thinking of using some adhesive copper tape and cutting a small piece to fill in the missing part of the pad

 

[Matthews Guitars]

It's kind of a common sense thing. Use fine wire to rebuild as much pad and connection as is needed. Knit/weave what you need. Make the wire more or less resemble the pad before it broke off. Solder it to hold it in place and keep its shape. It's basically sculpture with fine wire. I can't tell you a more specific procedure than that.

 

[psychic_fuzz]

It's kind of a common sense thing. Use fine wire to rebuild as much pad and connection as is needed. Knit/weave what you need. Make the wire more or less resemble the pad before it broke off. Solder it to hold it in place and keep its shape. It's basically sculpture with fine wire. I can't tell you a more specific procedure than that.

That works thank you

 

[dtier]

You can also just scrape the green coating back some and wrap the component lead around and flat against the trace and solder.

 

[Leonard Neemoil]

I'd just bypass the that trace and solder to the component that the trace is connected to.

 

[GAStan]

They make solder pad repair kits. It's a bunch of replacement pads & traces. You could scrape the green coating off the trace and solder on a repair pad/trace.

Repair kit

 

[JJB79]

Could you post more pictures, both sides? I happen to be fully class 3 certified and have made several repairs of various electronics. Never an amp but same principal applies. Some great suggestions above, but if you don't know what you're doing exactly go to a pro. If this was something cheaper I'd say go for it, this this isn't the case.

 

[rixmixnfix]

It's hard to judge the scale from the picture and the status of the removed component ( the empty hole to the left), but if you are replacing the 'empty' component, leave the lead on that replacement component long through the hole and bend it toward the the trace to the right. Maybe carefully scrape or sand the green solder mask off the trace to the solder points on the right. Then carefully remove some of the solder on both components on the right and bend the lead around the top pad and down to the second pad and resolder everything. If you are not replacing the 'missing' component, but reusing the original one, use a piece of solid wire like a clipped lead and put a tight loop around the original component and bend that stub away to the left, solder it and proceed as above. I have done this (too) many times and it is a lasting repair.

 

[petercornell]

Given tant there is some of the PCB track to anchor onto, I would use a PCB rivet. These units are usually used to make through-hole PCB connections, but I have often used them for this purpose.

 

[petercornell]

Sorry, my post count is too low to post a link. If you google 'pcb rivet', there will be many links to look at.

 

[79JMP100]

There is so little missing that in all honesty, I wouldn't worry about it. If you are worried, you could leave the lead that runs through the board long, bend it in the appropriate direction, and run it over to the next component solder point on the trace and solder it there too...

 

[psychic_fuzz]

There is so little missing that in all honesty, I wouldn't worry about it. If you are worried, you could leave the lead that runs through the board long, bend it in the appropriate direction, and run it over to the next component solder point on the trace and solder it there too...

Yea I was thinking of just bending the lead over the remaining pad, soldering it, then if the lead reaches soldering to the next joint.

It’s one of the electrolytic bias caps so just want to make sure I have a good connection.

Probably a dumb question but is there any issue with having 2 two parallel connection points form the same component?

 

[psychic_fuzz]

Sorry, my post count is too low to post a link. If you google 'pcb rivet', there will be many links to look at.

So you just insert the rivet into the existing whole and connect by soldering to the remaining solder pad?

 

[psychic_fuzz]

It's hard to judge the scale from the picture and the status of the removed component ( the empty hole to the left), but if you are replacing the 'empty' component, leave the lead on that replacement component long through the hole and bend it toward the the trace to the right. Maybe carefully scrape or sand the green solder mask off the trace to the solder points on the right. Then carefully remove some of the solder on both components on the right and bend the lead around the top pad and down to the second pad and resolder everything. If you are not replacing the 'missing' component, but reusing the original one, use a piece of solid wire like a clipped lead and put a tight loop around the original component and bend that stub away to the left, solder it and proceed as above. I have done this (too) many times and it is a lasting repair.

Its one of the holes for a bias cap.
Im replacing it. I’ll most likely bend the new lead over the remaining pad and then solder to the joint to the right. Should be enough connection?

 

[arthur.lowery]

I would:
a) scrape off the green to the other pads in the picture
b) make a little circle of single-strand wire with a leg, like a p-shape
c) place the circle around the original hole, and take the leg of the p to between the other pads.
d) use the o of the p as the new pad, and solder in the component through it
e) maybe place a bit of epoxy close to the damaged hole, noting that it can become conductive

The key is to get a mechanically secure joint that won't break due to the weight of the component under vibration, and then make it electrically secure (I guess the epoxy then makes it doubly mechanically secure!).

 

[petercornell]

The rivet can also be 'expanded' on the component side of the PCB, similar to an eyelet board.
This gives some mechanical strength as well.

So you just insert the rivet into the existing whole and connect by soldering to the remaining solder pad?

 

[MullardFillmore]

Before I was an engineer many years ago I was an electronics tech in an Army depot. We would use a trace repair kit and put conformal coating over it.
Then again you can just jumper it, an inspector is bot reviewing your work like we had