The Official Marshall DSL40c Information Thread

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Micky

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Easy way to tell f it is actually the loop or the pedals is to just jumper the loop and compare it to the pedals. If just the jumper sounds exactly like it should I would look into some true bypass stuff.

Personally I have only started to use anything in the loop, a Boss GE-7, but it's output is adjustable and it is very easy to set the thing up. in or out, the loop on mine sounds the same (unless I kick on the pedal...) as if nothing was there.
 

solarburn

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I'm getting disappointed as I read many on the thread are having to deal with issues out of the box.

I have the money to pick this up for a grab and go but hassling with returns is not something I want to do to myself. I can deal with temperamental tubes amps but not right out of the box. I'm no stranger to sending amps back. Tired or frustrated with my luck would be more accurate.

I already know how to get good tones from a DSL so that doesn't even concern me. Know how to bias, roll tubes and change speakers. Gat damn flakey tube amps.

Anyways I'd like to have the 40c . Its power and size is just right. Already got the bigger iron.
 

Micky

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For every problem you hear reported on the internet there are 20 without problems you never hear about. Many are user-generated problems, but I agree, you hear about some right out-of-the-box.

This is why you should go and play one. When you buy one, ask them to open it up so you can play it. (you don't want to take home the box anyway...) And for those who choose to buy sight-unseen - make sure the return policy suits your needs. Some places charge a restocking fee if you return only. If you exchange, some places even pay shipping. Buyer beware, be a smart shopper and do your homework.

That being said, I guess I am one of the lucky ones. I have bought tons of stuff online, never ever having to return something because it did not perform as described. If you don't know how to setup and maintain a tube amp, then you may not well suited for one. If you know how to take it to a tech when needed, you don't have to know how to maintain it, all you need to is know how to make enough money to have someone else do it for you. Simple.

If you don't know how to maintain a tube amp, and are not prepared to keep at least one set of spare tubes around, and are unwilling to part with the cash to have someone else maintain it, then frankly, you don't deserve to own a tube amp. I know this is not the case in this post example. But for many here, they cannot understand why it is so expensive and requires so much work. These are the ones who might be better off with a SS amp IMO.

And I know there are those who are literally sick and tired of having to send stuff back. I feel for you. Really. My wife is one of those who will buy something from a catalog or online, only having to return it because the color is off or it doesn't fit. BUT - she is smart enough to buy from a retailer who has pre-printed return labels that costs her nothing for return shipping. Problem is I am the one who must shuffle my schedule to pick up and drop off packages at the post office.

Problems exist with all amp models, from all manufacturers. That fact is compounded by the dealers who place returns back on the shelf for sale without testing. It happens everywhere, and despite however much complaining anyone does, it is not going to stop anytime soon.

Do your homework, be a smart shopper, and try-before-you-buy if you can.
 

wangchung

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I guess I'm asking you because you have pretty much started this thread. But I like to hear what other people are see setting their bias at as well. I'm using the stock power tubes. I have a couple jj's in the v1 and v2. V3 and v4 are still stock. I swapped the 70/80 for a vintage 30 and have a 1X12 cab loaded with an Eminence Wizard.

My main problem with this setup is finding a smooth, low gain setting for rehearsals. Sounds a bit harsh for some of the tunes we do. The best that I came up with was running my OCD at 18 volts on the green, clean channel. Perhaps I'm not setting up the eq correctly. I play a Les Paul studio with bb pros.

Anyways, bumping up the bias definatly adds life to the green channel. I'd like to be able to use the green crunch channel and eliminate the ODs.

My experience has been that you can close/soften the mids thru biasing.
Usually lower settings, 60-65% bias, but it's not a hard rule. I did get a
somewhat smoother tone with other tubes than the stock ones in V4,
but it's subtle. I have a similar spkr setup to you, a V30 in the 40c and
a G12T in an ext. cab for more bass. I've experimented with 4 sets of
EL34's. Once I get the plate voltage, I calculated 50 &70% bias. With
the chassis out, and my spkrs connected, I started at roughly 50% and
raised the bias in 2mv increments, playing and listening at ea. point until
I liked what I heard, then went up and down a mv. to try and tweak it.
V1 is split between input buffer for both channels and ultra channel gain.
V2 is half gain "cascade" and channel 1 "crunch" mode gain.
With the tubes you list above, I'd try lowering my bias and put one of
your JJ's in V4 and maybe the stock tube with the red dot on it back
in V1. Just a suggestion..........
 

Greatwhitenorth

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I did have to return my first DSL40C. It stopped working after about 10 hours of use. I didn't have any spare EL34's at the time, but I suspect that was the culprit. I did swap out every preamp tube with a known working spare with no results. I phoned the shop and told them that I suspected a power tube and they told me to return it and they would give me a new one. The one I have now has operated flawlessly for several months. Like Micky said, I believe that most of the issues are common to all tube amps.
 

solarburn

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I'll just go through Sweetwater. Any issues they will take care of it. My luck is horrible.lol

I had a neighbor use to crack up at the turds I'd have to send back and how often. Hell I'm a pro about the in's and outs of doing it. Just a process or hassle depending on how many times it happens.

Some of us have extenuating circumstances like working 3rd shift, being a single parent with no time to go demoing amps that are miles away. Mail Order suits some of us hence when shit goes wrong its a big disappointment. Not the end of the world. I have amps to fall back on while the process unfolds. Takes the sting out of a turd deal.

Knowing how to bias tube amps will save in tech trips big time. I feel its a needed skill and it is tube maintenance. I know and use techs for whatever I won't do. God bless them and their skills cause I love tube amps.

Anyways I'm not seeing/hearing a whole lot of clips in this thread. Are you guys really playing the amps or are you too busy trying mods jus because some bodies ears thinks it sounds better? If I get one I'm going to light this thread up with a bone stock circuit, stock speaker, good tubes and a pedal or 2 pushing that crunch channel. I've got tubes popping out of my grommets cause I'm one of those that utilize spares for tone or burn outs.

Appreciate all the feedback I've seen/read on this thread. Been following it for some time now as I've wanted a grab and go Marshall that I can utilize tone wise. This seems to be a good choice...and the price is really decent.
 

wangchung

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joined just for this thread. im still only halfway through reading but had a questions.

is the loop in this amp known to be crappy? i've been using the same 2 digitech delay and chorus pedals in the loop of all my amps for about 2 years now and have been perfecty happy with them but since i've gotten this amp (about 3 months ago) i havent been happy with my sound with the loop button on. as soon as i turn the effects loop off it sounds alot better but i loose my delay and chorus. with the loop on it sounds muffled a bit and darker.

is this a problem with the amp? if so is there a fix for this besides running everything right through the front of the amp?

my whole experience with this amp has been hit and miss, it took musiciansfriend 3 tries to get me one that works. each of the first 2 had atleast 2 faulty knobs. it took me almost 2 months from the time of ordering the first one to gettting one that works. i made due with each one for a day or 2 before sending back while trying to decide if i wanted to try again or not and each time it sounded better and better. the current one just seems hit and miss, it either sounds great or sounds like garbage. no in between, and thats without changing anything just plugging in the guitar and flipping the switch so its not environment. on a good day i think of selling off some of my other amps, on one of its bad days i regret letting it kick my old blackstar ht-5 mini stack out.

I feel your pain Outlaw. I'm on my 2nd 40c, and it was a return. It had
JJEL34L's and 2 GT silver 12ax7's in it when I cracked it open. It's holding
bias tho, unlike #1, and the tube thing is all that was done to it so I'm
keeping this one. I had your experience with the JCA22H when they first
came out. 3 of 'em, and they had me mail #3 to Mr. Soldano hissef for
examination and repair. They paid for everything and It took only 5 days.
But the reason I bought it was the loop as much as the 2 channel thing.
I tried to run a Mr.Echo, a HOF thru it first.....every time I kicked in channel 2 for a lead, it boosted the effects too making it unusable.
thought it might be the pedals, so I obtained a Holy Grail and a Lovepedal
Gen 5 delay. Same thing. I traded for a DSL15H. It was almost as bad w/o
the loop. Traded it for the 40c, of which I am on #2 example. I am running
the grail reverb and the LP Gen5 delay in the loop w/o any problems. There
does seem to be a slight reduction in "Fi" when the loop is engaged with
nothing in it. But I'm so glad it's working with stuff in it I ignore it. I figure
just having the features, working, at this price point is good. "Solid state"
or "digital" whatever. It's way more bucks for more tubes and springs.
 

saxon68

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Solar, my clip is all stock, and I recommend zzounds as they have a great return policy, prepay returns, and do whatever is needed to satisfy the customer and you can break it into 8 payments no interest and no credit check, they just hit your debit card and you can have them move payments up to 14 days over the 8 months if needed.
 

MarshallDog

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Sweetwater is excellent and you can get a better than advertised price from them. Nick Church is my Sales Guy, he is wonderful and low pressure, never tries to up sell you. If anything is wrong with the amp, they pay to have it shipped back. Just another choice.
 

MarshallDog

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If all goes well, I am planning on trying all Mullard glass just to check out the tone, I am curious as to how they will sound as compared to all JJ's...:hmm:

UPDATE: Every time I am about to change out the glass in my amp to all Mullard's, I sit down to play it first so I can get a good grip on the tone/sound before the switch and I end up saying this amp sounds great with all JJ's so why do I want to open her up again and go through the bias steps??? Not sure what I want to do right now other than PLAY...
 

Micky

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Solar I think you are correct, use a reputable dealer and insure your rights are protected. I would never say that all amps are gonna be perfect when new, but I will bet that by using a reputable dealer the chances are much higher.

I was kinda hoping somebody would fill this thread with sound clips, I know personally I can't do that so I try to make up for it with photos and other tech stuff. It would be great to have a bone stock clip as a control point that can be referenced when people start to mod their amps. Good luck!
 

Pasloade74

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My experience has been that you can close/soften the mids thru biasing.
Usually lower settings, 60-65% bias, but it's not a hard rule. I did get a
somewhat smoother tone with other tubes than the stock ones in V4,
but it's subtle. I have a similar spkr setup to you, a V30 in the 40c and
a G12T in an ext. cab for more bass. I've experimented with 4 sets of
EL34's. Once I get the plate voltage, I calculated 50 &70% bias. With
the chassis out, and my spkrs connected, I started at roughly 50% and
raised the bias in 2mv increments, playing and listening at ea. point until
I liked what I heard, then went up and down a mv. to try and tweak it.
V1 is split between input buffer for both channels and ultra channel gain.
V2 is half gain "cascade" and channel 1 "crunch" mode gain.
With the tubes you list above, I'd try lowering my bias and put one of
your JJ's in V4 and maybe the stock tube with the red dot on it back
in V1. Just a suggestion..........

Thanks for the tip Wang, I left the bias alone but I took your advice on the tube swap. I've only been able to play at low volume for now but I can't wait to crank it up.

My only question is what do the red dots on one of the stock tubes indicate? I've never noticed that before. Thanks.
 
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solarburn

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Sweetwater is excellent and you can get a better than advertised price from them. Nick Church is my Sales Guy, he is wonderful and low pressure, never tries to up sell you. If anything is wrong with the amp, they pay to have it shipped back. Just another choice.

Yeah MD that is who I've settled on for some time now. The CS is the best I've had and I have needed it. Took care of everything for me. Made sure I was happy. Total confidence in them.
 

solarburn

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Solar I think you are correct, use a reputable dealer and insure your rights are protected. I would never say that all amps are gonna be perfect when new, but I will bet that by using a reputable dealer the chances are much higher.

I was kinda hoping somebody would fill this thread with sound clips, I know personally I can't do that so I try to make up for it with photos and other tech stuff. It would be great to have a bone stock clip as a control point that can be referenced when people start to mod their amps. Good luck!

Your contribution to the thread is fantastic. Very valuable. I hope to get one very soon. I have the money but I have to make sure I'm committed to the amp...

My contribution will be clips. Plus I will talk about V1 & V2 tube choices as well as my fav power tubes. Other than that I'll play it for you guys see what kind of sounds we get. I will force myself to let the 70/80 Celestion break in. My gut tells me I'll want the Creamback in it. I love GB speakers. I'm not a metaler.lol
 

wangchung

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Thanks for the tip Wang, I left the bias alone but I took your advice on the tube swap. I've only been able to play at low volume for now but I can't wait to crank it up.

My only question is what do the red dots on one of the stock tubes indicate? I've never noticed that before. Thanks.

Hey 74;
Red dot....I'm guessin' screening for microphonics primarily, but high output
and balance between sides is desirable for V1 too. A "quality" tube.
 

Skylarkpilot

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Regarding tubes....I copied Micky on the power tubes and stuck in TAD EL34bSTR power tubes initially biased to 40 but then reduced to 38 for a little more longevity (hopefully).
Then I stuck a TAD 7025s (12AX7) Mullard style premium quality in V1 and Electro Harmonix 12AX7EH (selected for V1 quality) everywhere else. Took a bit of a reset on the EQ but the reverb is more noticeable and I'm even loving the red channels now. Played the Ace of Spades (Motörhead version) yesterday and was having a ball. FWIW I am now Mr Happy with this amp. The only problem is, I think I'm going deaf as the temptation is just to turn it up and then up some more !
 

Pasloade74

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Ok, perhaps I'm spending too much time listening and trying to dial this amp in rather than just playing. But whenever I'm playing at home at a low volume either on the crunch channel or on the clean using an overdrive pedal I hear an unusual clipping sound while strumming. It almost seems like a blown speaker but I know the speaker is fine. I even hear the clipping when I plug straight in to the extension cab.The clipping seems a bit louder then the actual pedal or preamp tubes. Almost like its coming from somewhere on the amp. Its weird.

Like I said I've used 2 different speakers, I've swapped preamp tubes, swapped guitars and even tightened up all the screws around the perimeter of the baffle. I only hear it at low volumes and it goes away when playing totally clean.

Does anyone have any idea where this sound might be coming from. Thanks
 

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