BanditPanda
Well-Known Member
Hi all. I am looking for a 1 x 12 extension cabinet ( empty ) with the same specs as my DSL40C . The 40DSL will rest on top of it. Anyone with some suggestions / recommendations please?
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The Official Marshall DSL40c Information Thread
- Thread starter Micky
- Start date
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Bownse
Well-Known Member
The guy that's making my cabs also has 1x10 and 1x12 extension cabs.
My project is this:
Keep the OEM cab so it can be restored if needed.
Get 3rd party (bare) cabs for the head and a 2x12 extension cab. Move the OEM and my swapped speaker into the external cab after finishing them out (tolex and other assorted hardware). It's make the head easier to manage for biasing or simply lugging. I was pondering open or closed back on the extension cab so went closed; knowing I can go back to the builder and get an open back panel if needed.
Materials Sources:
Head cab
http://www.ebay.com/itm/rawcabs-pin...rshall-DSL-40C-chassis-project-/291793667143?
Extension cab
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301986611349
Tolex and hardware:
http://www.reliablehardware.com/
Speaker clothe, Tolex, Logos (the DSL40C is a 9" logo), etc.:
http://www.thevintagesound.com/store/grillcloth-marshall-style-grill-cloth-c-9_36.html
The front baffle of the 40C has piping, around the outer edge. Anyone have a source?
Found some! Any others? http://www.speakerbuildersupply.com/Genuine-Marshall-large-white-piping-p/pmtwf.htm
Once I get it all together, I'll document how it goes.
--update 6/23/2016--
Got a call AND an e-mail (with pics) from Rawcabs (sorrycharley). He said always wants customers to approve the work before shipping. Nice guy. They head out today.
My project is this:
Keep the OEM cab so it can be restored if needed.
Get 3rd party (bare) cabs for the head and a 2x12 extension cab. Move the OEM and my swapped speaker into the external cab after finishing them out (tolex and other assorted hardware). It's make the head easier to manage for biasing or simply lugging. I was pondering open or closed back on the extension cab so went closed; knowing I can go back to the builder and get an open back panel if needed.
Materials Sources:
Head cab
http://www.ebay.com/itm/rawcabs-pin...rshall-DSL-40C-chassis-project-/291793667143?
Extension cab
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301986611349
Tolex and hardware:
http://www.reliablehardware.com/
Speaker clothe, Tolex, Logos (the DSL40C is a 9" logo), etc.:
http://www.thevintagesound.com/store/grillcloth-marshall-style-grill-cloth-c-9_36.html
The front baffle of the 40C has piping, around the outer edge. Anyone have a source?
Found some! Any others? http://www.speakerbuildersupply.com/Genuine-Marshall-large-white-piping-p/pmtwf.htm
Once I get it all together, I'll document how it goes.
--update 6/23/2016--
Got a call AND an e-mail (with pics) from Rawcabs (sorrycharley). He said always wants customers to approve the work before shipping. Nice guy. They head out today.
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BanditPanda
Well-Known Member
Thanks Bownse. I have sent a message to sorrycharly
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ken361
Well-Known Member
I ended up putting back in the gold lion in the v1, more fatter tone. Position 4 is insane on the DSL with gain 3 plus, so dynamic and fat!
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ken361
Well-Known Member
Using the red channel along with the green? I could prb use a boost the fat 50's aren't that strong
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Hello everyone,
I am experiencing a lot of trouble with my DSL40CST. It has worked perfectly for about 6 months but the past few days it has been unusable. There is no noise when I simply power it on, but once the standby switch is flipped there is a loud popping/crackling noise. It happens every time I turn the amp on, and I am concerned that something very major is wrong. Is it just a bad preamp tube? (I have some spares but was worried that putting one in would void the warranty).
Thank you,
Chris
I am experiencing a lot of trouble with my DSL40CST. It has worked perfectly for about 6 months but the past few days it has been unusable. There is no noise when I simply power it on, but once the standby switch is flipped there is a loud popping/crackling noise. It happens every time I turn the amp on, and I am concerned that something very major is wrong. Is it just a bad preamp tube? (I have some spares but was worried that putting one in would void the warranty).
Thank you,
Chris
Jethro Rocker
Well-Known Member
Could be pre or power tube. If warranty service is nearby, take it in. Otherwise you could try changing V1 or V4 pre tube. That shouldn't void warrranty.
Bownse
Well-Known Member
Outside of some reasonable time (30 days?) Tubes should be thought of like tires or oil in a car; wear items that are the responsibility of the owner.
Len
Well-Known Member
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Cracking noise usually means a bad tube or dirty tube socket.
rlowe
Active Member
Yes, after 5 months of enjoying the amp's sweet sound my tubes went south (crackling, loud popping when amp was turned on and whilst playing). replaced all preamp tubes no, not it. Replaced the power tubes yes, problem solved. I also now use Caig deoxit 5 to clean and improve contact between tube pins and socket.
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G the wildman
Well-Known Member
Ken. My tutor, a good guitarist, gets some cool sounds with my Strat on red 1 gain on 10. Personally I think that is a bit much but of course the guy has good fingers.
I have all Marshall stock pre amp tubes. They suit my ears and I am trying hard to stop tone chasing and just enjoy the amp.
Did you keep your Gibson or trade it?
G
ken361
Well-Known Member
I traded it,it was starting to wear pretty good on the frets and I dont have the money for a level/crown now
But plan to get something like that in the future. Im really digging the strat neck it fit my hands really good.and not a heavy guitar. I had a guy check my setup yesterday and re adjusted everything so I will get a chance to play loud tomorrow and see how it sound. Neck tones on the red 1 is awesome and the bridge is pretty decent. Cleans are awesome too. I recorded some samples again today. For the bridge I like the gain at 7 lead 1 and lead 2 gain at 3 and 3 on the neck lead 1
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Hello everyone.
I've been playing my DSL40C for a few years, but only at home. Last month I started to play at gigs again and I was very pleased with the sound of it at the stage (I've changed the original speaker for a Creamback, and the original tubes for tung-sol on the preamp and JJ on the power amp) . I received lot's of compliments on my tone! The other guitar player on the band has a 100W half stack (a George Lynch signature model from Randall) and the DSL40C has enough power and tone to compete with it at a small venue!
But I found something odd yesterday with the fx loop and I would like to ask for some information.
We are having problems with the neighbors complaining during rehearsals, so we wanna try to use an eletronic drum set at rehearsals, with all instruments plugged direct in the mixing console, and everybore using headphones. My idea was to use the following route:
guitar -> amp in -> fx send -> cab simulator (AMT chamaleon) -> mix console
I thought that way there would be no sound from the amplifier speaker, since the signal is going out from the fx loop and never returing (the FX loop switch is on), but the sound is coming from the speaker. Since it's a series FX loop, it was not supposed to have any sound comming from the speakers, right? Any ideas of what could be going on?
P.S.: sorry for the bad english.
I've been playing my DSL40C for a few years, but only at home. Last month I started to play at gigs again and I was very pleased with the sound of it at the stage (I've changed the original speaker for a Creamback, and the original tubes for tung-sol on the preamp and JJ on the power amp) . I received lot's of compliments on my tone! The other guitar player on the band has a 100W half stack (a George Lynch signature model from Randall) and the DSL40C has enough power and tone to compete with it at a small venue!
But I found something odd yesterday with the fx loop and I would like to ask for some information.
We are having problems with the neighbors complaining during rehearsals, so we wanna try to use an eletronic drum set at rehearsals, with all instruments plugged direct in the mixing console, and everybore using headphones. My idea was to use the following route:
guitar -> amp in -> fx send -> cab simulator (AMT chamaleon) -> mix console
I thought that way there would be no sound from the amplifier speaker, since the signal is going out from the fx loop and never returing (the FX loop switch is on), but the sound is coming from the speaker. Since it's a series FX loop, it was not supposed to have any sound comming from the speakers, right? Any ideas of what could be going on?
P.S.: sorry for the bad english.
Jethro Rocker
Well-Known Member
You could use electronic drums turned down through your monitors and simply turn tbe amps down...easy, less setup...
It isn't a speaker mute, you still get signal to speaker with loop out. Why, I dunno...but it does.
It isn't a speaker mute, you still get signal to speaker with loop out. Why, I dunno...but it does.
So, it's normal? You still get sound from the speaker when you use the fx loop send, even if you don't return it through the fx return?? Doesn't it means it's actually a parallel loop? According to the manual it was supposed to be a series loop...
Jethro Rocker
Well-Known Member
It is. Mine works that way as well. It's actually nice because you can run out to a board or what have you and still hear your speaker. That's irrelevant to me. You must have monitors set up in order to hear vocals if it was "too loud". So make it simple - you already have electronic drums, just turn everything down! How hard can it be? Make it simple, forget headphones, it's hard to communicate that way. Just because he has a 100 w half stack, doesn't mean it can't be turned down to a reasonable level.
Sure, it's simpler and will probably sound better!
The problem is, since I already have the cab simulator, I was hopping I could pratice at home late at night using it with headphones...
Jethro Rocker
Well-Known Member
Cab sim might work well at a gig, for late night I guess just run volume really low....
Jethro Rocker
Well-Known Member
I don't know of any others, got your PM but "Reply" doesn't show up....?
Hello all. Long time lurker, first time poster.
Well after SEVERAL modeling amps (Fender Mustang I v2, Line 6 Flextone III XL, Line 6 Firehawk FX) and tube amps (Orange Micro Terror & Micro Dark, Ibanez TSA15H, Orange Tiny Terror Combo, Blackheart Little Giant (PTP modded), Blackstar HT20, Orange Dark Terror, Egnater Tweaker 15, Carvin V3M - all of them sold/traded/returned), I am now the proud owner of a new DSL40C (less than a couple weeks old). It didn't stay stock for long thanks to this thread. So much for the warranty lol. But I think I've FINALLY found "the one" and didn't mind throwing some money and time at it this go around.
First thing I did was swap out the Celestion 70/80 with a Celestion Vintage 30 (well broken in, out of a PPC112). Then I checked the bias. It was at ~38.5mV and ~42mV - not as bad as others have found. Set it to ~38mV, then it was off to clip out C19. Though a VAST improvement, I still wasn't 100% happy with the tone. Decided to try some new tubes (mine had the Marshall branded red logo "JJ" ECC83 in the preamp and TAD labeled (Marshall branded) EL34 from the factory, brand new out of the box). I ran through various tubes I had trying to find a tone I like - EHX 12AY7/6072A, RCA 5751 Black Plate, JAN Philips 12AT7WC, JJ ECC83S, Tung-Sol RI 12AX7, all used with the stock EL34. Tried them all in various spots, but couldn't find the tone I was looking for. The Tung-Sol was too bright and shrill, liked the JJ but only had one of them, and the lower gain tubes all seemed to neuter the amp no matter where I put them.
Based on reading the thread (and not willing to shell out hundreds for NOS), I ordered Mullard RI EL34 for the power section, JJ ECC803S Gold Pin 12AX7 in V1, JJ ECC803S in V2/V3, and Sovtek 12AX7LPS in V4/PI (ordered from TubeDepot.com and specified low noise/microphonics - highly recommended). I set the bias to 37.3mV based on a plate voltage of 469V. BIG IMPROVEMENT! This thing started to sound how a Marshall should sound at that point. The cleans were great, the crunch was awesome, and had plenty of non-fizzy gain. I was seriously impressed (and surprised) with how different it sounded. BUT along with tubes I had also ordered some Mallory 150 and Orange Drop caps to mod the board. I was very happy where it was, but ever the tinkerer, I decided to continue with the planned upgrades since I already bought it. I also bought the Classic Tone OT and Choke to install.
And finally some pics of the process!
Ready to start working:
Board successfully removed:
C4 replaced with a Silver Mica 5% 100pF (stock value):
Decided to add some capacitance (previously removed C19) - changed to a Silver Mica 100pF 5% 500V - this was later changed to a Silver Mica 22pf 5% 500V. Didn't like 100pF at all, and the 22pF seems to have a little "something" over no cap at all (probably all in my head lol).
Just some random pics after changing the rest of the caps:
Well after SEVERAL modeling amps (Fender Mustang I v2, Line 6 Flextone III XL, Line 6 Firehawk FX) and tube amps (Orange Micro Terror & Micro Dark, Ibanez TSA15H, Orange Tiny Terror Combo, Blackheart Little Giant (PTP modded), Blackstar HT20, Orange Dark Terror, Egnater Tweaker 15, Carvin V3M - all of them sold/traded/returned), I am now the proud owner of a new DSL40C (less than a couple weeks old). It didn't stay stock for long thanks to this thread. So much for the warranty lol. But I think I've FINALLY found "the one" and didn't mind throwing some money and time at it this go around.
First thing I did was swap out the Celestion 70/80 with a Celestion Vintage 30 (well broken in, out of a PPC112). Then I checked the bias. It was at ~38.5mV and ~42mV - not as bad as others have found. Set it to ~38mV, then it was off to clip out C19. Though a VAST improvement, I still wasn't 100% happy with the tone. Decided to try some new tubes (mine had the Marshall branded red logo "JJ" ECC83 in the preamp and TAD labeled (Marshall branded) EL34 from the factory, brand new out of the box). I ran through various tubes I had trying to find a tone I like - EHX 12AY7/6072A, RCA 5751 Black Plate, JAN Philips 12AT7WC, JJ ECC83S, Tung-Sol RI 12AX7, all used with the stock EL34. Tried them all in various spots, but couldn't find the tone I was looking for. The Tung-Sol was too bright and shrill, liked the JJ but only had one of them, and the lower gain tubes all seemed to neuter the amp no matter where I put them.
Based on reading the thread (and not willing to shell out hundreds for NOS), I ordered Mullard RI EL34 for the power section, JJ ECC803S Gold Pin 12AX7 in V1, JJ ECC803S in V2/V3, and Sovtek 12AX7LPS in V4/PI (ordered from TubeDepot.com and specified low noise/microphonics - highly recommended). I set the bias to 37.3mV based on a plate voltage of 469V. BIG IMPROVEMENT! This thing started to sound how a Marshall should sound at that point. The cleans were great, the crunch was awesome, and had plenty of non-fizzy gain. I was seriously impressed (and surprised) with how different it sounded. BUT along with tubes I had also ordered some Mallory 150 and Orange Drop caps to mod the board. I was very happy where it was, but ever the tinkerer, I decided to continue with the planned upgrades since I already bought it. I also bought the Classic Tone OT and Choke to install.
And finally some pics of the process!
Ready to start working:
Board successfully removed:
C4 replaced with a Silver Mica 5% 100pF (stock value):
Decided to add some capacitance (previously removed C19) - changed to a Silver Mica 100pF 5% 500V - this was later changed to a Silver Mica 22pf 5% 500V. Didn't like 100pF at all, and the 22pF seems to have a little "something" over no cap at all (probably all in my head lol).
Just some random pics after changing the rest of the caps:
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