TUBE Facts and Info by MartyStrat54

[mickeydg5]

Not all amplifiers are arranged the same, so you have to watch placement of tubes on the chassis and look at how they connect to the circuits.

The input jack connects to first stage components which connect to the first stage preamp tube (half) also usually called V1a.

The 2205 is trickier so watch where the tube wires run off to the board and circuits.

 

[MartyStrat54]

In that picture from left to right it is V1, V2 and V3 . V3A is a gain stage so it is grouped with V1 and V2.

Then continuing on, you have V4 and V5.

 

[Remedylane]

Awesome! That is what I thought. Thanks Marty. You guys have been so helpful and welcoming here. The knowledge I am gaining is awesome. So currently there is the EH in V1 and Mullards everywhere else. Going to get one of the Rubys you recommended and try it out. No gigs for 2 weeks so I have been in tweaking mode. I like the EH sound, but it was for sure a bit noisier than when there was a Mullard in V1.

One other question. How much do different pre amp tubes effect the reverb???

 

[MartyStrat54]

Generally, if one 12AX7 tube is used for the reverb, you can use a good utility tube in that slot such as a JJ or EH. Your amp shares V3 with the reverb and the final gain stage for the boost channel. The final gain stage for the boost channel is the least critical, so you can get by with about anything in this slot. One of your Mullard RI's will be fine in this slot.

The EH is a brighter tube, but I'm not a big fan of that particular tube. However, you seem to like a brighter tube and that is why I suggested the Ruby AC5 HG+ to you. It is the quietest current production tube I have tried. The less noise you have in V1 the better the tone will be.

 

[Remedylane]

Gonna send you a PM Marty. Whenever you have a free moment.

 

[Eternal Scar]

Hi Marty.I have a 1988 JCM800 2203 100watt head.I bought this with the matching cab off of the original owner in 1992.It has only ever had 1 tube change ever(original owner had it done)and has Groove Tubes in it now.I am not sure if the pre amp tubes are the original ones as I do not know how to tell.It still sounds good but after all these years I want to retube it.Can you steer a brother in the right direction on what kind of tubes I should be looking to get?Any help would be greatly appreciated!!Thanks!

Mark

 

[MartyStrat54]

Well have you ever drove a car for such a long time that you don't notice that the shocks need replaced and then when you get them replaced you are amazed at how great everything is? Same with tubes. Of course you didn't say how much the amp has been played? Tubes don't go bad unless they are being used.

I can only assume that the amp was played and therefore the tubes should be replaced.

I would recommend a set of TAD EL34B STR's (about $110 for a matched quad) for power and the Ruby 12AX7AC5 HG+ (about $20 per tube) for V1 and V2 and a Mullard RI (about $18) for V3.

 

[Eternal Scar]

Well have you ever drove a car for such a long time that you don't notice that the shocks need replaced and then when you get them replaced you are amazed at how great everything is? Same with tubes. Of course you didn't say how much the amp has been played? Tubes don't go bad unless they are being used.

I can only assume that the amp was played and therefore the tubes should be replaced.

I would recommend a set of TAD EL34B STR's (about $110 for a matched quad) for power and the Ruby 12AX7AC5 HG+ (about $20 per tube) for V1 and V2 and a Mullard RI (about $18) for V3.

TAD EL34B STR's?Is TAD the brand?I know someone selling a matched quad of Ruby EL34B STR's what are your thoughts on those?Any idea where I can get the preamp tubes you suggested?

 

[MartyStrat54]

TAD is a brand. It stands for Tube Amp Doctor. TAD is based in Germany. They design the tubes there and then they are made at the Shuguang factory in China.

The Ruby is a relabeled Shuguang EL34. The only difference between them is that the Ruby's are tested better by burning them in longer and therefore the risk of getting a bad tube is lessened.

The Shuguang and the TAD look the same, but the materials inside the tube are higher grade and supposedly the TAD's have a better vacuum.

I don't see a problem with you using the Ruby's.

 

[Eternal Scar]

TAD is a brand. It stands for Tube Amp Doctor. TAD is based in Germany. They design the tubes there and then they are made at the Shuguang factory in China.

The Ruby is a relabeled Shuguang EL34. The only difference between them is that the Ruby's are tested better by burning them in longer and therefore the risk of getting a bad tube is lessened.

The Shuguang and the TAD look the same, but the materials inside the tube are higher grade and supposedly the TAD's have a better vacuum.

I don't see a problem with you using the Ruby's.

Thanks Marty!If I put these Ruby's in my Marshall do I have to get the amp rebiased since it already has EL34B's just GT not Ruby's?

 

[MartyStrat54]

Yes, when replacing the power tubes in the 2203, you want to adjust the bias.

 

[Eternal Scar]

Yes, when replacing the power tubes in the 2203, you want to adjust the bias.

I bought the Ruby's now I just have to hunt down the pre amp tubes you recomended and time to get er retubed!Thanks again!

 

[MartyStrat54]

Let me know how it sounds. Don't over bias the power tubes. I like to bias at around 65 percent. Too hot of a bias can make a 2203 sound harsh.

 

[Eternal Scar]

Let me know how it sounds. Don't over bias the power tubes. I like to bias at around 65 percent. Too hot of a bias can make a 2203 sound harsh.

My tech has it now Marty.I went with all the tubes you said and he is doing a cap job on it as well.As soon as I get it back I will let you know how it sounds,I'm sure I will be one happy camper!!Thanks again for all your help!

 

[MartyStrat54]

Not a problem. I'm sure it will kick some ass.

 

[Vicious Amplification]

Very informational and lots of great information there Marty. I just picked up a full set of JJ Power and pre amp tubes for my TSL rebuild. All matched sets.

(4) JJ ECC83-S / 12AX7
(4) JJ E34L (EL34)

 

[MartyStrat54]

Well I hope you don't mind if I comment on the JJ's.

The JJ E34L's are a very good tube for 80's rock/metal. I do not like the JJ EL34.

JJ ECC83's are the darkest sounding current production preamp. I only recommend them for V3 and V4 in a DSL/TSL.

If you like your TSL to be darker sounding, trust me it will with the JJ's in V1 and V2.

Personally, as far as CP tubes, I like the Chinese stuff. I would go with either a TAD 12AX7WA or a Ruby 12AX7AC5 HG+ in V1 with a Mullard RI in V2 and the JJ's in the two other slots. If you feel the amp is too bright, then put a JJ in V2.

 

[Duffy49]

Well I hope you don't mind if I comment on the JJ's.

The JJ E34L's are a very good tube for 80's rock/metal. I do not like the JJ EL34.

JJ ECC83's are the darkest sounding current production preamp. I only recommend them for V3 and V4 in a DSL/TSL.

If you like your TSL to be darker sounding, trust me it will with the JJ's in V1 and V2.

Personally, as far as CP tubes, I like the Chinese stuff. I would go with either a TAD 12AX7WA or a Ruby 12AX7AC5 HG+ in V1 with a Mullard RI in V2 and the JJ's in the two other slots. If you feel the amp is too bright, then put a JJ in V2.

I have found that a high gain amp can be very particular about which tube that it will get along well with in V1. Being a novice I bumbled around with a quite a few before I found one that satisfied V1 in my Peavey 6505+ combo. Some of them "squealed" ridiculously with high gain even at low volume.

 

[FutureProf88]

Hey Marty. I picked up an old 7025 for $6 at a music store a while back. If I PM'd you a pic would you see if you can ID it?

 

[MartyStrat54]

Yeah go ahead. Let me see it. Make sure it is a clear, large shot.