TUBE Facts and Info by MartyStrat54

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sccloser

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I was thinking about some NOS glass. Do you have anything for sale? I need to quit getting these non EL34 amps. I have a bunch of EL34's but no 6L6's.
 

MartyStrat54

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I don't have anything. I really don't deal in NOS power tubes anymore. It's just so hard to find good matched sets.

Do you need two or four?

I left you a comment over on the Preamp Tube thread.
 

Micky

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[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uKyVk92gwv4]New JJ 9 watt EL84? Feel free to ask Myles - YouTube[/ame]
 

MartyStrat54

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That's pretty much my feeling. Do you recall Jon Wilder's thoughts on this same topic? Epic!
 

MartyStrat54

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I wouldn't even begin to know where to look. Someone posted about the ELL84's and included some comments from Bob of Eurotubes. Jon went ballistic. It was very interesting. Jon called the tube for what it is, a marketing ploy.
 

MartyStrat54

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Yeah, I put an extra "L" instead of an extra "4." EL844.

Like Myles said and I concur, most guys with EL84 amps complain of lack of clean headroom. Putting EL844's in your amp will make this worse.
 

yladrd61

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FYI: Watford Valves has NOS New 37 Code Tesla EL34s for 55 pounds>uk.a piece I am sure they can match a quad. If I didn't just get those XF2's I would be all over that !!!!

PS: They also have NOS Phillips JAN 6L6WGB's I put some in my Bassman they Rock !!!
 

MartyStrat54

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I like the older Tesla's, but I'm not too keen on the later production stuff. They have a tendency to rattle.
 

yladrd61

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I have a set of Teslas, I had them in my amp for 5 years and they still sound great. I never heard them rattle but of course I have a 1970 Super Lead so I would be kind of hard to tell, lol. I have NOS {$$$$$$} Mullards in there now ;)

Also those JAN Phillips 6L6 WGB, are military spec tubes that were made for use in Military Aircraft, they have a higher plate dissipation than 5881's, The only Data sheets I have seen say they are a 26W tube. Maybe You can come up with more info on them Marty. They sure sound good in my RI Bassman
 

MartyStrat54

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Here is the Tung-Sol data sheet. I believe that Tung-Sol was the original military supplier for the WGB.

Philips bought Sylvania and at that time Sylvania was the only US tube manufacturer still in business and their main customer was the military. Philips ECG tubes were Sylvania design and had the same spec's as the Tung-Sol's.

http://scottbecker.net/tube/sheets/087/6/6L6WGB.pdf

FWIW, lots of Tungsol military 5881's are labeled 6L6WGB.

5881/6L6WGB-This type originally was known as the 6L6WGB, and was designed for the US military. Nearly all were made by Tung Sol. The tube is a short flat topped tube with a brown base, and a large grey plate structure inside. These often had large top getter patches, but there are some with side getters, some have both top and side getter flashing. The design proved so popular that an industrial version was created and labeled the 5881. Both tubes are the same.
 

Remedylane

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Very interesting read Marty. Although I have been playing for over 20 years, I just got my first all tube amp last year. It is a 1988 JCM 800 2205. I had my tech service it. He changed the filter caps, put new power tubes and biased it.. Just went over the amp in general. All of the pre amp tubes were Mullards.. One was microphonic so we replaced it. He had a few brands on hand and would let me play and tell him which brand I liked. Ended up being an Electro Harmonix. I assume when you say V1 you mean the preamp tube farthest to the left if looking at the back of the amp. That is where the Electro Harmonix is.. Am I correct in that assumption? Is V1 in the 2205 where ill get most of the tone changes from? Thanks in advance!
 

MartyStrat54

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V1 is closest to the power transformer and the farthest away from the power tubes. It may or may not have a metal shield covering it to protect it from RF.

There are two versions of the 2205. Here is the tube layout for your amp.

Normal Channel: V1A and V2A and V2B

Boost Channel: V1A and V1B and V3A

Reverb: V3B and V4B

Effects Return: V4A

Phase Inverter: V5

12AX7's have two triodes, A and B. In your amp both the normal and the boost channels use V1A as the first gain stage. This is your most important tone tube.

If you are happy with the EH, then I would recommend that you try a Ruby 12AX7AC5 HG+ ($20). I would put it in V1 and the EH in V2.

Hope this helps.
 

Remedylane

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Im a tad confused.. So which one is V1? I assume V1 is the brushed silver looking one as opposed to the chrome ones. They all have tube shields on them.

 
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