Weird sound from my dsl

Kamui26

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I don’t think I want to on my own I’ll have to take it to someone if there’s anyone around me, I live around an hour from any kind of music shop so I’ll have to do some looking.
Cuz like this is my first tube amp I ever had and I had to lookup most terms mentioned in this thread to understand anything

I got it back in march or april but before that I had a Line 6 Catalyst 60 and this is the first time I’ve ever had to take the backplate off so I’ll try to find someone to check it out cuz I don’t wanna risk damaging it any further.
 

Leonard Neemoil

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Last night is the first time it’s ever done that, and it also take maybe about 15-30 minutes playing on medium volume for it to start doing it again but it’s a lot less intense than it was earlier or even in the video.

When mine does it, it's pretty much immediate, but I only play at loud gig level even at home by myself. If I smack the head, it goes away.
 

Kamui26

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When mine does it, it's pretty much immediate, but I only play at loud gig level even at home by myself. If I smack the head, it goes away.
Exactly like that’s usually how loud it is, I don’t do much live stuff if any but I love the tone and how it sounds when I record so it’s never been immensely loud
 

Rob D

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So basically I was recording when suddenly my Jcm 2000 dsl 100 started making a popping noise louder than the clicking from being about 4-5 feet away from my computer. Then it started making this unbearable screeching noise almost like it was writhing in pain?
Would anyone maybe know why maybe like a bad tube, fuse, something like that?

that’s what it sounds like

I’ll dude you need to have it checked by an amp tech who knows what he’s doing. Marshall 100 w amps run hot and cook the main pcb. They’re notorious for it and you mention that it’s pre 2012, which means it’s got the shitty pcb thsts prone to cooking. If it was my amp I would open it up - UNPLUGGED from the ac mains **** - and look for cooked/blackened pcb (around the tube bases and bias resistors) I will be clearly visible. Also likely to be dry solder joints on the board.
Dude the popping & screeching WILL return. Get the main board replaced. If you are in the U.K. Marshall themselves do a very reasonable pcb replacement service for around £70
 
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What year is the DSL ? You just might have Bias Drift take it to a reputable Tech since you don’t know much about electrical . There is things that can be measured there is also some very high voltages inside that will kill you . Do you have a place that you can take it to ?
 

guitarbilly74

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IMHO you have to rule out a tube issue first.

I've been surprised how many times I thought one of my amps had an "issue" and it turned out to be just bad tubes. And you can't diagnose tubes just by looking at them, they're not light bulbs, they can light up perfectly fine and still be bad.

The easiest way to do it is to get new tubes and replace the existing tubes one by one and see if the issue stops. Then you can decide if you want to just replace the faulty tube or do a full retube. (For power tubes, you should replace the whole set for best performance/matching, preamp tubes can be replaced individually).

That should be your first step and even if that ends up not being the issue, it's not wasted money because you should have spare tubes anyway. Look at it as having a spare tire for your car, you may not need it now or any time soon, but you don't want to be driving without one.

I'd also get some DeOxit and clean every potentiometer and jack thoroughly, since dirt can cause issues, especially around the fx loop jacks.

From there, you will need to take it to a tech if the issue is not resolved, as it could be a number of things and tube amps are not safe to be poking around without knowledge.

But again, I wouldn't do anything without ruling out tubes and cleaning first.


Also, the amp did not "fix itself". Amps don't do that. There's an issue and it will 100% pop up again at some point and perhaps in a worse/more expensive form if not dealt with in a timely manner.
 
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Filamentary

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100% what guitarbilly74 said.

It’s usually tubes.

I (carefully and lightly) tap on/wiggle tubes with the amp on, off standby, guitar plugged in, to see if I can get it to “act up”… If you are not comfortable doing this, take it to a tech. If you are going to do it, do it with one hand behind your back so you are not touching anything else. Don’t touch your guitar. I like using wood chopsticks to poke around on live electronics. Don’t use a pencil or a pen (shock hazard). I like to use a cloth oven mitt with hot tubes. Often by doing this, I can narrow it down to one tube/or socket (unless the problem is elsewhere).

If this is outside of your comfort zone, just take it to tech. Getting electrocuted is not fun.

Good luck!
 

jjjp

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100% rule out tubes first. As others said, swap out preamp tubes one at a time and see if it eliminates problem. Easy to do and not dangerous, just have a wash cloth available to help pull tubes as they get hot. If you have deoxit, spray the tube pins and wiggle the tube in and out a couple times when you replace it. Make sure your swapping the same tube type- I’m not sure if all the non-power amp tubes on the DSL are 12ax7 (or ECC83, which is interchangeable with 12ax7, it’s just the European designation).
 

PelliX

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Make sure your swapping the same tube type- I’m not sure if all the non-power amp tubes on the DSL are 12ax7 (or ECC83, which is interchangeable with 12ax7, it’s just the European designation).

Go the extra mile and check. You can use an ECC83 in any position where they *fit* physically. Don't try this on an EL84 amp, haha!
 
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